tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9181144717980529002024-03-13T02:21:13.241+01:00Ronsight Newswhat's up / news / factsRonny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.comBlogger49125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-42227370226524013842022-04-24T23:33:00.011+02:002022-04-25T01:17:53.712+02:00<p>Hello again... :)</p><p>More than 5 years without climbing! Sounds strange, but it's reality. </p><p>Family circumstances have led me to hang up my climbing shoes. For almost 6 years no climbing, no bouldering, no rock, no hard moves, purely nothing... ok.... biking, babysitting, chilling and many other things of course, but no climbing. I had no motivation anymore, no desire, had not missed climbing in any way. I even assumed that it would remain, but for a few weeks I am now climbing again something. Once a week, in the hall with friends. The persuasion of good friends has shown effect.</p><p>I don't want to resurrect this blog, but I would like to publish a few videos, which I wanted to put online for a long time. Not because people need to see this (lol), but because people have asked me about it. ;)</p><p>Specifically, it's about some first ascents in Blattiswald. They are a few hard and really super nice lines for which people kept asking for information. Let's see... maybe I'll draw a topo for this bloc, but at least you'll find the videos for the most important two lines now (Hemera 8A and Amun-Re 8A+). </p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ai--NZG33VDghAwsu3aDjvovtOdV?e=mV4wbJ" target="_blank">Hemera 8A</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ai--NZG33VDghAsdJ0D-WWp0omSR?e=hdlNq7" target="_blank">Amun-Re 8A+</a><br /></p><p>see you out there...</p>Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-12313522178840739832014-06-03T14:19:00.000+02:002014-06-04T09:29:49.177+02:00Adios MurgchachosSo... now it's slowly getting too warm at Murgtal. The last day I went there i had overt 20°C on the lower sectors. In the morning and up on the sector lake it was about 15°C. Ok for some climbing, but still far away from good conditions. I think I'll devote myself to new areas again until the fresh coolness returns to the "Valley of Murg". <br />
On to the Sustenpass and surrounding areas...! ;)<br />
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Some days ago I managed to climb the new line "<strong>Minor part, 8A+</strong>". Even that day I had 20°C... but the line hiding between two big boulders and is the whole day in the shade. At least the rock was quite cold - not me ;) - <span class="hps">so I</span> <span class="hps">could climb</span> <span class="hps">the line</span> <span class="hps">pretty quickly</span>. Luckily...!! I would have not had enough power for a third attempt this day. <br />
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The next day then I had a look to "<strong>Flanagans, 8B</strong>".... but since days now it's coming too much water down the stream and it's not possible to cross it. But... it probably makes sense to wait for autumn anyway!! <br />
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What could I do otherwise? Sure... let's have a look for new lines!!!<br />
Recently I noticed a boulder, i've never seen before. It's close to the sector lake... a wonderful high boulder which offers some good lines. The day I saw the boulder I just had a short look to it. But now it was time to put on the shoes. ;)<br />
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The boulder had already magnesia on the holds... therefore someone tried or did it already. I managed to climb two lines on it. "<strong>Dreamtheater, 7B+</strong>" and "<strong>Access denied, 7C</strong>". Both are highly recommended and very beautiful lines!! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kLmKfgySoiI/U428mPoFbsI/AAAAAAAABB8/RgPKRWFtpOc/s1600/Dreamtheater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kLmKfgySoiI/U428mPoFbsI/AAAAAAAABB8/RgPKRWFtpOc/s1600/Dreamtheater.jpg" height="242" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Access denied, 7C (yellow)... and Dreamtheater, 7B+ (red).</td></tr>
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Later I saw that both lines have already been climbed... but not topped out. As I topped out them, I already thought that these were first ascents... just because of the fact, that I haven't seen any signs that someone was up there before. <span class="hps">The</span> <span class="hps">forest</span> <span class="hps">facing</span> <span class="hps">side of the block</span> is completely overgrown with moss and it is impossible to come down there, leaving no trace in the moss. Anyway... the topout makes sense and completes the lines, but it is not necessary (quite easy) and pretty high too.<br />
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<a href="https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21462&v=3"><strong>Dreamtheater, 7B+</strong></a><br />
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Have fun!!<br />
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Cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-88262064535701629022014-05-20T23:38:00.003+02:002014-05-21T09:29:45.665+02:00Growing Murgtal - 2Three weeks ago I was able to climb one of my favourite "must do"-boulders... "<strong>Bourguignon, 8B</strong>". <br />
I really like this brute bodytension style!! ;) Since about two years I wanted to climb it... but either it was not possible to cross the stream (too much water), or I just had other projects. This year now the stream was already dry in spring, what's pretty unusual. Good for me ... so I could finally take the horse by the bridle and after four days it was also tamed. :)<br />
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<a href="https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21412&v=3"><strong>Bourguignon, 8B</strong></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6qWz2XpcX-M/U3xRuq8E6OI/AAAAAAAABBI/0XUfvhmkLyw/s1600/Zwischenablage02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6qWz2XpcX-M/U3xRuq8E6OI/AAAAAAAABBI/0XUfvhmkLyw/s1600/Zwischenablage02.jpg" height="248" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the first hard compression-move in Bourguignon...</td></tr>
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The same evening I tried a new project in the back of "Bourguignon". I had already a look to this boulder some days ago... but now the boulder was completely cleaned. When I arrived a couple of guys just left the area. I'm pretty sure that these guys have cleaned the boulder. It would be interesting to know, if they've climbed something on it. There is no arrow or any other sign on the boulder.<br />
Anyway... that evening we tried a sitstart, started with both hands at the low undercling. It is definitely possible to climb that thing. We did all the moves except one... so no success so far. <br />
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A few days later I had a look to Guntrams new boulder "<strong>Cosmic chaos, 8B/B+</strong>". It's kind of an extension to the existing "8A-shield" in one of the lower sectors. The idea to climb the whole shield is not new... I discussed this already last year with a friend of mine, but I never started to work on it. Now it's done and we got a beautiful new testpiece in Murgtal. Congrats GU...!!! Nice one! <br />
I checked out all the moves, climbed all the different sequences and now I just have to go for it. It's not that hard... pretty long (about 18 moves), yess... and very steep... but also very homogeneous without extremely hard moves. A "must do", if it's in your reach!!!<br />
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Next "project" was a one week trip with my whole family to the "Gardasee" (lago di garda). My parents invited us (me, my two children, my girlfried and my sister with their children) for that vacation. <strong>MANY THANKS FOR THAT...!!!!</strong> We had a great time down in Italy and were lucky to have six days of perfect weather!!! <br />
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The week after we just had rain, rain, rain, more rain, still rain, rain and rain again...!! I think that was the worst week of the present year 2014. :( <br />
...did I already mention that it rained THE WHOLE week!!??!! ;)<br />
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Luckily it was over with the rain the week after and Murgtal started to dry. It was my first climbing-day after two weeks break and I went for the unknown line "<strong>John Rambo, 8A</strong>". It's an awesome boulder up a pretty steep edge. Despite (or because of!?) my break, I was able to make a "turbo-ascent" of this hidden pearl. 5 minutes warmup to check out the moves... 10 minutes break and then the ascent at my very first try from the sitstart. Cool...!!!! The shape seems to fit! :o)<br />
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<a href="https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21439&v=3"><strong>John Rambo, 8A</strong></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--8WWVvaqNhY/U3xR9RTx4_I/AAAAAAAABBQ/kHcEeYLbb88/s1600/Zwischenablage01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--8WWVvaqNhY/U3xR9RTx4_I/AAAAAAAABBQ/kHcEeYLbb88/s1600/Zwischenablage01.jpg" height="268" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">hidden in the forest... John Rambo...</td></tr>
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Next one was "<strong>Flanagans, 8B</strong>". There I met a couple from Austria with their nice little dog "Caramel". Forian worked on Flanagans with me and both of us had the same problem with the first very very hard tesion move with a hold for your left (shoulder) and the foothold far right. You're almost hanging horizontal in the wall... completely stretched... and have to push your body up to an undercling. It's possible for sure... but I'll need some days to get used to that brutal move. The rest would work... <br />
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Florian told me about a new line from Fabian Christof, which is close to my route "<strong>Taurus, 8A</strong>". The line is called "<strong>Minor part, 8A+</strong>"... a hard traverse with a crunchy crux in the middle. The rest is homogeneous... but always very exacting.<br />
Yesterday I gave it some tries... but I had such strong muscle soreness from my attempts in "Flanagans" that I was just not able to hold on for more than 20 seconds. Especially my left forearm ached extremely!! After I longer warmup it went better... and at the end of my session I was able to do all the moves (I counted 28 of them!!!!) and climbed the line in two sequences. At least good prospect for the next day of climbing...!! But first of all I need a few days without any strain... just relax and recover!!!! ;)<br />
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You see... Murgtal is still growing... and that quite fast. "<strong>John Rambo, 8A</strong>" was already climbed in 2007... but nobody knowed it. New are "<strong>Cosmic Chaos, 8B</strong>", "<strong>Minor part, 8A+</strong>", "<strong>Big Ben right, 8A</strong>" from Gu too and two lines from an Austrian guy, which are called "<strong>Sumatra, 8A</strong>" and "<strong>Morene, 7C</strong>". Unfortunately I've no idea where these two lines are located... know that someone???<br />
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-21182258723280190892014-04-25T15:51:00.002+02:002014-04-25T16:03:45.856+02:00"Scarface, 7A" - FASome days ago I cleaned and climbed a new boulder in the Entlinge-sector. It's a really really NICE faceclimb (shield), comparable to Fred Nicole's testpiece "L'ombre du vent, 8A+"... just a few grades lower. ;)<br />
The line is pretty high... but luckily the tricky moves are the very first ones and the last moves up and with the topout are quite easy. <br />
I called the line "<strong>Scarface, 7A</strong>". It's somewhere between 6C and 7A+... no idea. <br />
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<a href="https://onedrive.live.com/#cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21394&v=3"><strong>Scarface, 7A</strong></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5UDeTZ7skMk/U1pqaipCohI/AAAAAAAABAQ/s3vkb3Vt6-g/s1600/Scarface+7A+FA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5UDeTZ7skMk/U1pqaipCohI/AAAAAAAABAQ/s3vkb3Vt6-g/s1600/Scarface+7A+FA.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">vid-screeshot of my FA... </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-58serRCI2oY/U1pq6w7GFmI/AAAAAAAABAY/g0A41caIkfM/s1600/RON_3269_klein.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-58serRCI2oY/U1pq6w7GFmI/AAAAAAAABAY/g0A41caIkfM/s1600/RON_3269_klein.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">beautiful shield... before I cleaned the topout. ;)</td></tr>
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-35725910089545040832014-04-10T12:08:00.003+02:002014-04-10T16:50:23.422+02:00Growing MurgtalI really like this area!! There is so much potential for new lines... it's just incredible!! Only a small part of the Murgtal-forests are known and there are still dozens if not hundreds of boulders in this valley. Sure... the ones close to the streets are mostly known. But even close to streets are still many undone problems... especially further down the valley. If someone - like me - is looking for new unclimbed rock, then he is right here! So keep your eyes open and find new challenges all around this wonderful area!!! ;)<br />
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In recent months the forestry workers have cutted down hundreds of trees. Now you suddenly can see boulders, which were previously hidden in the dense forest. Additionally, you can move much better through the former thicket now. This I do not want to miss... so I made my way through the jungle and what I found left me amazed...!!<br />
I found several pristine boulders which offers some wonderful lines. These must be there for centuries and are just waiting for their discovery. <br />
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The first problem I found was certainly not an unknown. Right of "<strong>Happy Housewives, 7C+</strong>" is a massive overhanging little wall , which seemed to be impossible first. I tried this line already last year, but did not found a good solution. This time I realized that there is a little stone in the crack, which I just can pull out of it. Without this small stone I got an appropriate little hold, where I can take for the previously impossible sequence. I did not chipped it.. that's something I really hate and NEVER would do. It was more or less the same as you pull dirt out of a crack. ;) <br />
Anyway... now it works well and the new line makes a lot of fun to climb. I called it "<strong>Poseidon, 7C+</strong>" (probably 7C). I choosed this name because of the fact that the wall has the shape of a wave and you're kind of surfing along the lip of it. <br />
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Have a look to the short movie and you know what I mean. ;)<br />
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<a href="https://onedrive.live.com/#cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21319&v=3"><strong>Poseiden, 7C+</strong></a><br />
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The next one I found was a completely new boulder in the "Entlinge sector". This boulder was not visible before... thanks again to the forestry workers! :) ...and now you can see it already from the road. It's just about 30 meters away. This boulder offers a few new lines. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nWKJ_JHXvXQ/U0Zq1A2b_nI/AAAAAAAAA_E/1DWvgvANHK4/s1600/RON_3239_Linien_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nWKJ_JHXvXQ/U0Zq1A2b_nI/AAAAAAAAA_E/1DWvgvANHK4/s1600/RON_3239_Linien_small.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New boulder in Murgtal...</td></tr>
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An already done line is "<strong>Dr. Frost, 7C</strong>" (yellow)... a beautiful line along the "edge". You start sitting at the obvious big hold, go right to the edge and then along it up to the top. It's quite high and the dropzone is everything else than flat... so be careful... even if the topout itself is quite easy.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the crux... bring the left hand to the edge too.</td></tr>
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To be able to climb and topout the boulder we had to clean it for about four hours... a big part of it with a rope. The first day together with Aldo... the edge itself and all the holds below the topout... and the second day I cleaned the whole top of the boulder with the rope. Quite a lot of work and pretty tiring!! <br />
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The second line is called "<strong>Würger, 7A+/7B</strong>" (orange). This one starts standing... the left hand at the overhanging edge (undercling) and the right one on a pretty high little crimp. Then you go dynamicly to a sloper on the left und mantle up there. The mantle was a real fight.... hence comes the name. ;)<br />
There you have to be even more careful! Have a look the the overhanging "nose" there... a big part of it is completely cracked and for the mantle you're hanging completely on this part. It has definitely a few hundred kilos weight... and if it breaks off, you'll have a coarser problem!!!<br />
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The third line is still a project (red)... a pretty hard one! I would say it is at least 8B. I tried it already... but without success. The holds are really small and you have almost no footholds. Most of the moves I can do but the middle-sequence is impossible so far, or I just did not found the right beta for it.<br />
Feel free to try it... <br />
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So then... let's see what other boulders I will excavate in the next weeks/months. There is still so much to do!! ;)<br />
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-44848118177295591642014-03-14T12:35:00.001+01:002014-03-26T13:55:35.092+01:00Kitty catTwo days ago I went to Chironico... the first time this year. After many weeks of bouldering in the north, I was extremely motivated to climb some other things in another area. <br />
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My first intention was to have a look to "<strong>Roswell, 8A+</strong>" and "<strong>La Soucoupe, 8A+</strong>", which I tried already last year... but I had to stop my attempts because of my finger troubles. Now I wanted to check, if it works better... AND... if I can try this extremely steep roof with the small holds without any pain.<br />
Hmmmm... I just tried it for about 15 minutes. I was not able to do any move on this boulder!! I felt super weak and I was not even able to lift my ass at the very first move, which I did all the time last year. Oooh MAN... totally frustrating...!!! ;o))<br />
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So I packed all my stuff and went down to the 101 sector to have a look to some completely new things.<br />
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"<strong>Cat on a hot thin roof low, 8A+</strong>" and "<strong>Electric ant, 8B</strong>" were my targets. On Martins blog <a href="http://martinkeller.blogspot.ch/2013/12/one-night-in-chironico.html">Swizzybouldering</a> I saw some pics of the "<strong>kitty boulder</strong>"... and it looked AWESOME. It has a very similar style to my "<strong>Imhotep, 8A</strong>" at Blattiswald. It's a pretty steep and very powerful bodytension-problem on quite small and slopy holds. YEEAAHHH... my style!<br />
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I started to work on it... but it felt superhard at the beginning. Especially the crux after the first hard moves felt impossible. So I took my smartphone, sent a short message to Martin and took my pad for some attempts in "<strong>Electric ant</strong>". Not 5 minutes later the phone buzzed already and I got the needed beta for the cat. Yess... thanks! That's an exemplary service...!!! :)<br />
But now I sat on "<strong>Electric Ant</strong>" and tried to lift my ass at that boulder. Unfortunately, it looked no better than half an hour ago in "<strong>Roswell</strong>". This boulder starts at such a tiny little hold that a movement on that one simply looked impossible. After a few tries I was at least able to lift my ass... but the move itself didn't looked any better. Ok... let's try at least the much nicer and more logical higher start, which is called to be 8A+. A few tries later I grabbed the top of the boulder... but with just one pad, no spotter at the ground and some additional moves in front of me in 4 or 5 meters hight, I had no other option than to climb back down. <br />
NICE... at least something for the next day, when I have some companions. :)<br />
<br />
Back at the cat I tried Martins beta and after some attempts I had the crux behind me. COOL... it works... and it feels just great!! <br />
After the initial setbacks in "<strong>Roswell</strong>", things were going better now. <br />
<br />
Yesterday then my second day in Chironico and I went straight down to the "<strong>kitty cat</strong>". This boulder was THE ONE I had to try today. Luckily I had enough pads with me... for that boulder you need at least three big pads, if you're alone!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VSb64BSMGQQ/UyLpNyqvRqI/AAAAAAAAA-g/_WRaHZHNDZY/s1600/RON_2854_b_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VSb64BSMGQQ/UyLpNyqvRqI/AAAAAAAAA-g/_WRaHZHNDZY/s1600/RON_2854_b_small.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">myself in the crux-moves...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
My warmup was the traverse after the hard first moves and the 6C-finish with the topout (a boulder for itself). These parts are not the problem... with the exception of the topout. At the first tries I had no clue how to climb it. I almost went crazy on it... could it be!!??!! It's "just" a 6C... FUCKED UP!!! To cut the story short... it requires a little "trick". With that it is not so bad! ;)<br />
<br />
Anyway... two hours later I was still busy with the crux and far away from the topout. I was getting tired and really saw no more chances for an ascent. I told myself to have at least one last try... let's see what happens. AND... it happened... it happened very well... it happened extremely well... COOL... at the last try I fighted it to the end and "<strong>Cat on a hot thin roof low, 8A+</strong>" got his second ascent.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zp_2yNWjrfg/UyLo951HB5I/AAAAAAAAA-Y/dxfxqudfhl0/s1600/RON_2850_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zp_2yNWjrfg/UyLo951HB5I/AAAAAAAAA-Y/dxfxqudfhl0/s1600/RON_2850_b.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the whole "kitty cat"... </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="https://onedrive.live.com/#cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21320&v=3"><strong>Cat on a hot thin roof low, 8A+</strong></a><br />
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-44430277750516597392014-03-04T17:40:00.003+01:002014-03-05T09:58:43.845+01:00"Tiefflug, 8A/8A+" and "Imhotep low, 8A+" - FASince many years I'm climbing in Chironico during the winter. It's by far the closest area where I can climb outdoors. Usually...!!<br />
This winter I was three or four times in Ticino so far... the last day in early December. Since then I just climbed the north of Switzerland. <br />
<br />
The northern "hemissphere" never got a lot of snow this winter... and when, then it melted within hours. <br />
I like to call it "hemisphere", because of our big luck to have the alps between these areas and the possibility, to have completely different weather conditions inbetween of one hour drivetime. If it rains on the one side... it is often dry on the other side and vice versa.<br />
What lucky guys we are...!! ;)<br />
So this winter was good chance to try some "northern hemisphere projects", which usually just offer good conditions a couple of days per year. AND... Blattiswald still offering some of these lines, which are rarely possible. ;)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H_CLr2FNZQM/UxYBPO_aSVI/AAAAAAAAA-M/PEVMgx9g1CY/s1600/RON_2612_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H_CLr2FNZQM/UxYBPO_aSVI/AAAAAAAAA-M/PEVMgx9g1CY/s1600/RON_2612_small.jpg" height="197" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aldo in "<strong>Imhotep, 8A</strong>"... Blattiswald.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<strong>"Ex Nihilo":</strong><br />
I never went back to this project (see my last entry). this project is still open and undone... at least the intended way to climb it. Now... after I did some more FA's at Blattiswald and I don't have any other open projects... I like to go back there for some more attempts. Who knows... after some weeks with other physical stresses, it could be a good chance to be fresh enough (physically and mentally) to wrest an ascent.<br />
<br />
<strong>"Tiefflug, 8A/8A+":</strong><br />
The next project after my FA of "<strong>Imhotep, 8A</strong>" was a low start to "<strong>Blindflug, 8A</strong>". Already the very first day at this boulder I've seen the possibilities to either climb it out left (Imhotep), or to try a low start version. Some days after the ascent of "<strong>Blindflug</strong>" I started to work on a low start, but was not able to find a good sequence to climb it. It seemed possible, but pretty hard. <br />
Next one was "<strong>Imhotep</strong>", so I forgot a little about this low start and focused on the beautiful and powerful prow of "<strong>Imhotep</strong>". <br />
As soon as this project was climbed too, I had no other options as to go climbing by myself, or to find something new on this boulder. Some friends were still working on "<strong>Blindflug</strong>" and "<strong>Imhotep</strong>", so the decision was made fastly and I restart my work on the low start. It's much nicer and above all much more FUNNY to climb with friends...!!!! Even if I sometimes really enjoy it to climb alone too.<br />
<br />
The first day back on the low start was succesful... at least for a possible sequence for the first moves. The second day then I climbed "<strong>Tiefflug, 8A/8A+</strong>".<br />
"<strong>Tiefflug</strong>" adds three moves and some foot chances to the original. The moves are not extremely hard... but all together they add quite some difficulty and I really had to get used of these moves to climb them safe and economical.<br />
I wrote already that "<strong>Blindflug</strong>" is a pretty soft 8A in my opinion. However, I realized that others are thinking very differently about it. Nevertheless, I'm not sure if "<strong>Tiefflug</strong>" deserves an 8A+. <br />
But who cares... let's give 8A/8A+ and anyone can take the grade he likes. ;)<br />
<br />
<strong>"Imhotep low, 8A+":</strong><br />
Since I'm now climbed this low start ... so why not the same for "<strong>Imhotep</strong>" too?<br />
This version needed quite some additional effort from my side, compared to the upper start. "<strong>Imhotep</strong>" already felt pretty hard to me... and even the other solutions I've seen and tried now are not easier (depending on your preferences and preferred style of climbing). The low start adds just two moves... but due to the fact that the original is already quite long, it gets more a question of endurance than maximal strength. This is also the reason why I had to fight a few more days for this FA and in my opinion the low start really deserves 8A+. <br />
Will be interesting to get some feedback to it...<br />
<br />
<br />
As always lately I have some vids for you... <br />
<br />
<a href="https://onedrive.live.com/#cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21235&v=3"><strong>"Tiefflug, 8A/8A+"</strong></a> ... without music. :(<br />
<br />
<a href="https://onedrive.live.com/#cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21237&v=3"><strong>"Imhotep low, 8A+"</strong></a> ...with music. :)<br />
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-37257103259860453172014-02-08T21:40:00.001+01:002014-02-11T12:14:40.200+01:00"Imhotep, 8A" - FAThe last time we all just climbed at Blattiswald. This little area experienced a true renaissance the last weeks. Because of the bad weather in the south of switzerland - Chironico is in deep snow! - many people came to Blattiswald and some routes got more ascents in these days than in the last 20 years!!! ;)<br />
<br />
The weather situation is pretty special. Since christmas we never got snow, had less rain and many days with "Föhn"... the warm wind which is coming from the south. This is quite unusual and rare...! So at least it was possible to climb the north of Switzerland... and this, with sometimes perfect conditions.<br />
<br />
One line i've climbed the last days was "<strong>Bullenritt, 7C</strong>" (FA). This line is an old project from Alexandre von Rohr and friends, which they never finished up. Surprisingly! Because even at that time they were definitely strong enough to climb it.<br />
Anyway... it's an nice little line at the Memmentanz-bloc, which starts standing about one meter on the left of "<strong>Memmentanz, 7C</strong>" (red arrow). It is a very strange dyno... and hard to rate. Could be much easier for tall guys... but even harder for small ones. I'm wondering about the next ascents and the difficulty proposals.<br />
<br />
<strong>Stefan Kürzi</strong> (<a href="http://www.stefankuerzi.ch/">www.stefankuerzi.ch</a>) took a beautiful night-shot of me in "Bullenritt". <br />
Thanks a lot for that picture!! It looks amazing...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bfhmH-COTXg/UvoF0GB-KxI/AAAAAAAAA9w/blw0PRvMy1M/s1600/Ronny+in+Bullenritt+-+7C.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bfhmH-COTXg/UvoF0GB-KxI/AAAAAAAAA9w/blw0PRvMy1M/s1600/Ronny+in+Bullenritt+-+7C.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
"<strong>Ex Nihilo</strong>"... another long standing projects at Blattiswald, was initially tried by Alexandre von Rohr and Fred Nicole. Up to now it never got an anscent with the original idea to climb it. I don't know exactly when, but Dave Gisler did an ascent some time (or years) ago. He climbed a special version with a hold, which is a bit out of the line and was not originally planned. Anyway... also this version makes sense and is a real beauty. He called the line "<strong>Morpheus, 8B</strong>" (sitstart!). <br />
The only thing is... you have to be tall with a huge span to climb it. I tried it and had NO CHANCE to reach this hold. Too bad!! But no matter ... my goal was of from the beginning to climb the original idea.<br />
I tried it now for several days and since the second day I'm able to do the strange dyno up to the pretty good target hold... often even pefectly. Nevertheless, until now I was never able to keep hold on. Slowly but steady it get's nerve-wracking...!!!! ;)<br />
<br />
This is also the reason why I decided to try something else for the next days to get a little break from these moves.<br />
<br />
The first line I tried and did at Blattiswald this year was "<strong>Blindflug, 8A</strong>", as already wrote in my last entry. Already the very first day at Blattiswald when I did this line I had seen a possible version which climbs to the left on a very steep prow. I just had a look to it, touched the holds a little and thought that it will be REALLY hard... at least 8B... but I never really tried it. This Monday some friends told me to give it a try. They said that it should be possible, not too hard and offers beautiful moves. <br />
So why not...!!??<br />
<br />
It felt extremely hard this evening. I was able to do most of the single moves. To climb the whole thing seemed possible, but also incredible. On the other hand I was blown away from this beautiful but powerfull boulder, which requires an extreme body tension during the whole line. <br />
Fucked up...!!! What a boulder... what a beauty and what movements!!!! I REALLY HAVE TO CLIMB that thing!! <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ft8ZW4s5bFQ/UvisZEBTCtI/AAAAAAAAA9I/KqZVRIj6zXw/s1600/imho-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ft8ZW4s5bFQ/UvisZEBTCtI/AAAAAAAAA9I/KqZVRIj6zXw/s1600/imho-1.jpg" height="246" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the first very tricky move to a pretty bad pincher-sloper... </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rg_lWryg7u8/UvissHRBktI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/UCSTcPpTuo0/s1600/imho-2.jpg" imageanchor="1"></a> </div>
On Wednesday then I left work for three hours just to be able to take use of the perfect dry conditions this day ("Föhn"). After the first tries I realized that it probably would be difficult today. All my muscles were aching... my shoulder, my shoulder belt, my upper arms... I even felt pain in my chest muscles. Oohhh man... this will be a short performance! <br />
Surprisingly it went better with every try and at my very last try I even climbed up to the last hard move. <br />
CRAZY...!!! But now it was over... I was over! I went back to work... distroyed, but also very confident.<br />
<br />
The next day then the conditions were perfect again... despite of the rain the last night. I knew that Aldo wanted to go climbing and despite of my climbing the day before I felt extremely fresh. This could be THE DAY!!! AND so it WAS!<br />
<br />
Wow... this is definitely one of my nicest FA so far! A perfect piece of rock with incredibly nice movements!! Try it out!!! You'll be blown away as I was... for sure! ;)<br />
<br />
Check out the vid:<br />
<a href="https://skydrive.live.com/#cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21234&v=3"><strong>Imhotep, 8A</strong></a><br />
<br />
I don't know how hard it is. For me it definitely felt more like 8A+, which was also my first intention. But the day after my first ascent it got some more ascents from Michael Thalmann, Dave Gisler and some friends of Dave... although with a different beta.<br />
Most of them agreed on 8A. So for me it's o.k... it's definitely somewhere between 8A and 8A+...BUT... if this one is 8A, I think "Blindflug" should be adjusted. Compared to "Imhotep", "Blindflug" felt way easier to me... but this is just my personal impression.<br />
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cheers<br />
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Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-77152755324224614122013-12-26T00:49:00.001+01:002013-12-26T01:01:02.086+01:00Hello againOhhh man... it's almost 4 months ago since my last entry to this blog. The time is running so fast, it's just crazy...!! :)<br />
<br />
Many things happened in the last months. Friends got married, other friends got pregnant, my girlfriend was godmother, I have a new job since three months and these are just the highlights. You see... time is running and life is running even faster. ;)<br />
<br />
But thats not all. I feel that things are changing. Priorities change... time itself is valuable and rare! I like it... no question. But I really feel that i'm getting older and slowly but steady set new standards in life.<br />
<br />
Don't worry... I don't finish climbing. I just love it too much!!! ;o)<br />
I'm still motivated as years ago. Fortunately, I'm still able to improve myself... and this with 36. Why the hell I should finish something I'm loving that much? ;)<br />
<br />
On the contrary... I'm really happy at the moment! I like my new job very much and I'm really glad that I can cut the old braid. I worked there for seven years and that was enough. I think that I've found the right job for me... a new challenge with very nice people. Hopefully something for the next seven years, or even more. We will see...<br />
Also my two boys are getting older and older. Lien is 3 and a half years now and Inea is two. If I arrive at home after work, then there's only one... Papa here... Papa there... playing, romping, fighting... a real pleasure. :) <br />
Yes... life can go on as it is! :)<br />
<br />
But I've also climbed in this time... at least more or less... and was able to finish some projects. Let's give a short summary.<br />
<br />
At Sustenpass I don't climbed many things... but I was able to complete the whole "Marakesch"-boulder. There are a few 8A's on it and I was also able to put up some new lines or combinations. <br />
First of all there is now "<strong>Pini Pincher, 7C</strong>". A really nice version of "<strong>Marakesch-Variante, 8A</strong>"... but after the first hard moves over some pinchers you have to go straight up over some more pinchers. A really nice Version, which was umclimbed so far. I'm wondering... but as I know it was never climbed before.<br />
Next one was a combination of "<strong>Marakesch, 8A</strong>" and "<strong>All I had I gave, 8A</strong>". I'm not sure if I climbed "All I had I gave" the right way... but after some repeats from friends we all agreed that this one is not easier than "Marakesch" and the new combination combines the cruxes of both. The new line "<strong>All I gave I had from Marakesch, 8A+</strong>" s probably not the hardest 8A+... but we think that it deserves the grade. <br />
Last but not least I worked and almost climbed an even harder version... I'm not sure if it will be a hard 8A+ then, or even an 8B. For sure it will give one of the harder testpieces at the Sustenpass. The next summer will come...<br />
<br />
Next was Wassen... Giuliano Cameroni opened a beautiful new line there which is called "<strong>The Mentalist, 7C+</strong>", with a huge dyno as the crux. He assessed the line originally with 8A+... but after I did short work on it (third try) we agreed on 7C+. Next was a possible sit start version, which adds five moves. Especially the first move is extremely hard. I think that the first part is even harder than the upper part "The Mentalist"... just these moves will be 8A or 8A+. Unfortunately I never had a perfect and dry day there and therefore it is hard to rate it. If everything comes together, this first move can suddenly work fine. We will see... :)<br />
Because of these humid days I had to try other things than this low start version. The problem was that the important start-hold was mostly wet. Therefore I tried "<strong>Sur le fil stand, 8A</strong>"... the standstart of THE Fred Nicole testpiece in this area. The sitstart is 8B+... and the standstart is called to be 8A. I did it quite fast... the first day it was just too humid and the second day it had much better conditions and the holds sticked as the should. <br />
It is not the hardest 8A I think... but a really nice one. Go and try it... worth it! <br />
The sitstart I worked also a bit and it looked quite well. Surprisingly!! But because of some pain in my left knee since the uncountable tries in "Marakesch" and all the other versions... I had to stop my tries on that one. :(<br />
<br />
I think that's it so far for the northern side of Switzerland... next was TICINO. Ohh yesss... I love it. Still many things to do and alway worth the long way.<br />
<br />
Down there I was able to climb "<strong>Bridge over troubled waters, 7C+</strong>", "<strong>Soilwork, 8A+</strong>" and "<strong>Dr. Jump, 8A+</strong>". "Dr. Jump" felt pretty soft and I'm not sure if this line is that hard. I'm really wondering that everyone is giving 8A+... even if many people are calling is soft. But anyway... it's a funny dyno and definitely harder if you're not the tallest guy. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FUMz8j8Q4Y0/UrtxlHUEXCI/AAAAAAAAA8U/X-dTGMcmcq0/s1600/Soilwork+n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FUMz8j8Q4Y0/UrtxlHUEXCI/AAAAAAAAA8U/X-dTGMcmcq0/s1600/Soilwork+n.jpg" height="380" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">myself in "Soilwork, 8A+" in Chironico...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
But I've also started some new projects... for example "<strong>Baby mammoth, 8B</strong>", which definitely should work. The problem is the dropzone... you need either enough pads, or someone which is changing their position.<br />
<br />
The last things I started were "<strong>Deliverance, 8A+</strong>", which has a brutal start move from a fucking tiny crimp, "<strong>No Mystery, 8A+</strong>" and "<strong>Schule des Lebens, 8B</strong>", after the broken start hold. <br />
"Deliverance" is working pretty well... it's just a matter of a few tries I think. But firstly I had to adapt to that hard first move for two days... now it looks quite well.<br />
"No Mystery" and "Schule des Lebens" are working really good with the exception of the first move too. This dyno feels extremely at my limit... but i'm also not the largest one. It should work... I reach the hold, but am still unable to hold on.<br />
<br />
The last climbing day was Christmas the 24th. Strong wind ("Föhn") and 15°C on northern Switzerland offered perfect conditions. We went to Blattiswald, which is just a 15 minutes drive from my home town. A small but nice little area, which offers some good lines of moderate difficulties. The hardest line there is an old testpiece from Fed Nicole, which is called "<strong>Blindflug, 8A</strong>". I wanted to try it since MANY years... but never went there. I'm not sure if this beautiful line ever got a 2nd ascent... but at least now it got one more...!! ;)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oPStlxuhaOw/UrtuUFqcvCI/AAAAAAAAA8A/07PNBwBxIA0/s1600/20131224_115720_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oPStlxuhaOw/UrtuUFqcvCI/AAAAAAAAA8A/07PNBwBxIA0/s1600/20131224_115720_small.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aldo in "Blindflug, 8A"... an old Fred Nicole testpiece at Blattiswald.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I've made some nice vids from some ascents... the nicest ones are these two:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://skydrive.live.com/#cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21224&v=3" target="_blank"><strong>Soilwork, 8A+</strong></a><br />
<strong></strong><br />
<a href="https://skydrive.live.com/#cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21225&v=3" target="_blank"><strong>Blindflug, 8A</strong></a><br />
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-71291205023728694402013-09-02T15:22:00.004+02:002013-09-10T10:34:49.117+02:00"Reykyavik low, 8B" - First AscentO man... a long battle has finally found its end. Over the last two summer-seasons I went up to this bloc for uncoutable days. Altogether it took me 18 up to 20 days to finish this low start version to the original "Reykyavik, 8A+/8B". I wrote already so many words about this battle, I don't like to lose too much words again. Just something:<br />
YESSSS....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!<br />
<br />
Unbelievable how many days it took after my ascent of the original line. After the first two or three days in the low-start and the solution found, I thought that it will be a matter of a few more days or even a few tries. But the presence tells a different story. ;)<br />
<br />
It was an extreme fight to link all the moves together. Nonetheless I think that I have made myself quite clumsy. But anyway... this low start is definitely significantly more difficult as the the original and therefore I put it as a safe 8B or even a hard one. Would be nice to get a feedback soon. I'm sure there are many guys out there, which are able to climb that beast a little bit faster than me!! ;o)<br />
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Short movie of the FA...:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=e050ddb79135be2f#!/!cid=E050DDB79135BE2F&id=E050DDB79135BE2F%21165&v=3" target="_blank"><strong>Reykyavik low, 8B</strong></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7cgY2AT7QV8/UiSP4depLaI/AAAAAAAAA5M/Eeimln8Iavk/s1600/0-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7cgY2AT7QV8/UiSP4depLaI/AAAAAAAAA5M/Eeimln8Iavk/s1600/0-1.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the low start holds... the sloper above is the left-hand start hold of the original line.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vYSrIqom_pc/UiSQrQpf-YI/AAAAAAAAA5U/1W8MtWBj1-I/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vYSrIqom_pc/UiSQrQpf-YI/AAAAAAAAA5U/1W8MtWBj1-I/s1600/2.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the first crux-move... i's hard to do not loose your feets. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0HJ2H5h8JOM/UiWSGPkeH3I/AAAAAAAAA5k/qkEX-odjtX0/s1600/5-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0HJ2H5h8JOM/UiWSGPkeH3I/AAAAAAAAA5k/qkEX-odjtX0/s1600/5-1.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
cheers<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-12967863436225212642013-08-22T16:17:00.004+02:002013-08-23T09:21:09.098+02:00Rocklands 2013<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Our three
weeks trip to the Rocklands is history... unfortunately!! We had an awesome
time down in South Africa, met many nice people, enjoyed day after day the
breathtaking scenery and were able to climb a few nice lines. Only time went by
too fast!</span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Nonetheless
both of us (Aldo and me) went back home with a big smile. Not just because of
the great satisfaction after this holiday... but mainly because we were able to
close our loved ones in our arms again. Especially for me it was a loooong
time. Martina left Switzerland already in June to go down to Croatia with our
two boys. Therefore I haven't seen them for over two months. A really long
time...!! Accordingly, I was very happy to see my family again. :)</span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">But what
about the Rocklands?<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">As already
wrote in the previous entry, my last trip to the Rocklands is eight years back.
It feels like a century!! In 2005/2006, when Paul and me was on our
"around the world-trip", South Africa was the one destination, which
remained to us as the most beautiful and memorable in memory. Accordingly, I
was very excited to return to this place. Sure... I knew that it would not be
the same "Rocklands" as back in 2005. But this had no negative impact
on my anticipation. I just loved it too much!! <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The
landscape is the same as years ago. The same beautiful scenery, the same grey-orange
sandstone-boulders. Even Clanwilliam, the little town in this area is looking
almost the same as 8 years back. Just the "Spar" is bigger today and
the road over the Pakhuis-pass is not a dirt road anymore, but an asphalt
road... what makes the ride over the pass much faster and more comfortable.
Everything else was just like in my memory.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">As we drove
up to the pass on our arrival, I almost went crazy. As soon as I saw the orange
boulders, I was happy as a little child. I just could not wait to finally get
this sandstone back into my fingers! But we had other things to do first. It
was already after 8pm and we had a 25 hours travel in our bones. First of all we
had to go to the "Alpha Excelsior Guest Farm" to get our room, have
dinner and to go to sleep. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next
day then we went back to Clanwilliam to buy some food and go for lunch at
"Nancy's Tea Room". This is a little but very nice restaurant where
you get the best sandwiches you can imagine. Still... I have to say. Already 8
years back we went several times to "Nancy's Tea Room" and always
enjoyed the nice food there. Afterwards we went for our first boulders at the
pass itself. What a pleasure...!!! ;)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">However,
there are also a few unsightly developments... especially the many people! The
Rocklands completely changed to a mainstream boulder destination. As we were
there in 2005, we were almost alone and it was a real adventure. Today you have
hundreds of climbers there, a pretty big new campsite and many new houses for
rent. Especially at the "old" classic areas like the
"Roadside" and others you will never be for yourself. On the contrary
... some boulders are FULL of people. Sure, this was to be expected… but I do
not like this. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">However, I
have to say that we never have seen garbage lying around. Unexpectedly… because of a few negative reports... but
luckily! It seems that the climbers take considerate and not simply throw away
their garbage or to have improved significantly. </span></span></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">And what
about the climbing?<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Hmmmm… 8
years back I was able to push my limits in the Rocklands. This time I did not
even get close to my personal best. But not just me… also Aldo was not able to
succeed. Sure… both of us climbed some hard lines… but far away from pushing
limits. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">There was
something like a learning curve during this trip… I realized that I’m getting
old…!!!! ;o)<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">At home I
just climb twice a week… rarely three times per week. I work full time and have
a family with two children at home. There is not more space for climbing. However,
that does not matter. With my age of 36
this two climbing days per week are offering enough rest days to be fresh at
every day when I go out for climbing. I really need that… especially when I
climb at my limit. In the Rocklands now we climbed more or less every second
day… sometimes even two or three days in a row. Accordingly, tired and somewhat
exhausted we felt on many days. I’m… or we’re not 20 anymore. I really can feel
that the body needs some days rest to fully recover.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Both of us
needed some time to get used to the higher load and the style itself. The
bouldering in the Rocklands is very athletically. Many roofs and mostly overhanging
climbing with far moves on usually quite good holds. I’m not the
hardcore-crimper… but here the holds are more or less never a problem, but the
athletic climbing loads the muscles and the body strongly. I like that style,
but the body needs some time to get used to it. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first
two weeks we haven’t climbed many hard lines… but after these two weeks we felt
better day by day and in the last week we felt that it would be much more
possible with some more time down here. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Another
aspect is that especially the very hard lines (7C+ and above) are mostly
dependent on one or two very long or even often dynamic moves. It’s really fun to climb
these things… but these moves are always a bit depending on size and
coordination and they need a bit of luck. Especially the dynos. You never know if you have to try
them for just a few times or for several days. Especially I made the
mistake to almost exclusively try such lines in the beginning. After some time
I realized that mistake and focused more on homogenous lines with less dynos…
with success. In the last week I climbed “<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Witness
the sickness, 8A</b>” and “<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The shallow
cave, 8A</b>” quite easily… both at the second day after just a few tries. Also
“<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Golden Virginia, 8A</b>”, which I
climbed in the first week and which does not have one far move, I climbed in a
few tries. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was
pretty close at some harder boulders and with some more time I’m sure I would
have been able to climb that stuff at my personal limit… but not in just three
weeks. There were simply too many things we wanted to check out and too many
areas to have a look on. It’s simply not possible to projecting some really
hard stuff in this short time frame. </span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">If I alone look at the performance, it was
at least a super “training camp” in the end… and I already felt the positive
influence the first climbing day back home in my local projects. ;) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Anyway… in
the end it is not about the numbers. It’s all about the fun, the fantastic
experience we made, the beautiful landscape and the nice people we met. Thanks
to all of you… we had a fantastic trip and enjoyed every minute in South
Africa. Who knows… maybe I’ll come back again someday. That would be nice! But for now I’ve many
other projects at home and I’m also happy to be back here at our lovely areas
up in the mountains...!!! ;o)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Some impressions:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7OIatAautj4/UhYQR7WICsI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/knl9VM9pceE/s1600/RON_0603_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7OIatAautj4/UhYQR7WICsI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/knl9VM9pceE/s1600/RON_0603_b.jpg" height="233" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful arrivel in South Africa...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7LVBLB-YWZU/UhYQmL1HjFI/AAAAAAAAA1g/R2hbMVZnsVY/s1600/RON_1173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7LVBLB-YWZU/UhYQmL1HjFI/AAAAAAAAA1g/R2hbMVZnsVY/s1600/RON_1173.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our house...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2H827k1rT5Y/UhYQy1iRUGI/AAAAAAAAA1o/j7tpwNypeMA/s1600/RON_1183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2H827k1rT5Y/UhYQy1iRUGI/AAAAAAAAA1o/j7tpwNypeMA/s1600/RON_1183.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and environment...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tC2tLo3ma_k/UhYRYVcK8rI/AAAAAAAAA1w/TXC313b7Q4A/s1600/DSC04427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tC2tLo3ma_k/UhYRYVcK8rI/AAAAAAAAA1w/TXC313b7Q4A/s1600/DSC04427.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">surrounded by mountains... in front you see the new campsite area.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ugBKsXRPf8A/UhYR2gtDMfI/AAAAAAAAA14/1fF_jhOZYLM/s1600/RON_1469.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ugBKsXRPf8A/UhYR2gtDMfI/AAAAAAAAA14/1fF_jhOZYLM/s1600/RON_1469.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">other view from Pakhuis pass to the same aera...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Wu1BUfIaP8/UhYSZj6bP8I/AAAAAAAAA2A/JbPpJVxFj-E/s1600/RON_1087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Wu1BUfIaP8/UhYSZj6bP8I/AAAAAAAAA2A/JbPpJVxFj-E/s1600/RON_1087.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our little car... i'm really wondering how we was able to put all our stuff into it...!!! ;)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ISaMXDMmPtw/UhYSvkLTOsI/AAAAAAAAA2I/C9Uh2Kw8G6M/s1600/RON_0706_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ISaMXDMmPtw/UhYSvkLTOsI/AAAAAAAAA2I/C9Uh2Kw8G6M/s1600/RON_0706_b.jpg" height="262" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aldo in "Black labour, 7B+"...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ffd1qNyWe8A/UhYS9othVJI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/3ezTO1NCAt4/s1600/RON_1003_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ffd1qNyWe8A/UhYS9othVJI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/3ezTO1NCAt4/s1600/RON_1003_b.jpg" height="247" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and in "Golden Virginia, 8A"...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l8VjSmc4lF4/UhYTLFuURmI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/Ww11FnFL_ec/s1600/RON_0775.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l8VjSmc4lF4/UhYTLFuURmI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/Ww11FnFL_ec/s1600/RON_0775.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the view out of the "Madiba-cave"...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G25pm3VHiN8/UhYTbZpEQCI/AAAAAAAAA2g/7YJjw2Sj9eM/s1600/RON_0647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G25pm3VHiN8/UhYTbZpEQCI/AAAAAAAAA2g/7YJjw2Sj9eM/s1600/RON_0647.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and in front of the cave... before sunset.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Ge9Jqs1ZuE/UhYT3lWTRNI/AAAAAAAAA2o/angV2hPC_y4/s1600/RON_0910_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Ge9Jqs1ZuE/UhYT3lWTRNI/AAAAAAAAA2o/angV2hPC_y4/s1600/RON_0910_b.jpg" height="226" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">no comment... :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dvayr-wMcvI/UhYc9i3tRPI/AAAAAAAAA48/QNEvoVwenq0/s1600/RON_1106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dvayr-wMcvI/UhYc9i3tRPI/AAAAAAAAA48/QNEvoVwenq0/s1600/RON_1106.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">nature pure...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-piAbFipktT4/UhYUA0uGEZI/AAAAAAAAA2w/cNxsIQL-a1M/s1600/RON_1120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-piAbFipktT4/UhYUA0uGEZI/AAAAAAAAA2w/cNxsIQL-a1M/s1600/RON_1120.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wildlife...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NHtb2-U7ooo/UhYUP2TxUQI/AAAAAAAAA24/T16dLs-i6Ow/s1600/DSC04207_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NHtb2-U7ooo/UhYUP2TxUQI/AAAAAAAAA24/T16dLs-i6Ow/s1600/DSC04207_b.jpg" height="270" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8vIBx1tXGe4/UhYUbx8Ot9I/AAAAAAAAA3A/-OGfD_BRa70/s1600/RON_1358_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8vIBx1tXGe4/UhYUbx8Ot9I/AAAAAAAAA3A/-OGfD_BRa70/s1600/RON_1358_c.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">we also saw leopard tracks, baboons, snakes, giant beetles...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-io8u_YH4gOQ/UhYVA78AbCI/AAAAAAAAA3I/kg89zknr-Fw/s1600/RON_1300_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-io8u_YH4gOQ/UhYVA78AbCI/AAAAAAAAA3I/kg89zknr-Fw/s1600/RON_1300_b.jpg" height="241" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and flamingos...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FMhNi3HCWHs/UhYVPei7Z0I/AAAAAAAAA3Q/t4DsmxYmlLg/s1600/RON_1304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FMhNi3HCWHs/UhYVPei7Z0I/AAAAAAAAA3Q/t4DsmxYmlLg/s1600/RON_1304.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">after a day trip to the seaside...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-klLX8_yA404/UhYVgnuVuCI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/hQ4bYI0lmsY/s1600/DSC04364_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-klLX8_yA404/UhYVgnuVuCI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/hQ4bYI0lmsY/s1600/DSC04364_b.jpg" height="196" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with some nice slovenian guys (Jernej Kruder and Miha Hribar)...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xw9pLWLdTLM/UhYV_dAglsI/AAAAAAAAA3g/-7aPwhu8dWQ/s1600/DSC04257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xw9pLWLdTLM/UhYV_dAglsI/AAAAAAAAA3g/-7aPwhu8dWQ/s1600/DSC04257.jpg" height="400" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... :)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3SAr_Wawpp4/UhYWS6qH3qI/AAAAAAAAA3o/l7eFonYXmMw/s1600/RON_1378_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3SAr_Wawpp4/UhYWS6qH3qI/AAAAAAAAA3o/l7eFonYXmMw/s1600/RON_1378_b.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Krudi in "El Corazon, 8B"... was extremely close, but fell on the last move. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sxtHqypl-e4/UhYWpZC-7kI/AAAAAAAAA3w/Yhxnq9CFHBg/s1600/RON_1437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sxtHqypl-e4/UhYWpZC-7kI/AAAAAAAAA3w/Yhxnq9CFHBg/s1600/RON_1437.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miha in "Witness the sickness, 8A"... congrats!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZAUZc7gZIhY/UhYXdsR1rVI/AAAAAAAAA4A/6EvIuIsez9Y/s1600/DSC04194_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZAUZc7gZIhY/UhYXdsR1rVI/AAAAAAAAA4A/6EvIuIsez9Y/s1600/DSC04194_c.jpg" height="400" width="390" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">myself in "Barracuda, 8A"... but was too tired that evening.</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6jfH_9zSRoc/UhYXvlKrQMI/AAAAAAAAA4M/oNLrMG9_t3I/s1600/RON_1634_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6jfH_9zSRoc/UhYXvlKrQMI/AAAAAAAAA4M/oNLrMG9_t3I/s1600/RON_1634_c.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my right hand after some good looking tries at "Flying guitar thief, 8A+"...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wTYqTopLYd8/UhYa7qzuqlI/AAAAAAAAA4U/bLMZMQN0Xwk/s1600/RON_1414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wTYqTopLYd8/UhYa7qzuqlI/AAAAAAAAA4U/bLMZMQN0Xwk/s1600/RON_1414.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">just beautiful...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P-ngguK6000/UhYcC8YGwGI/AAAAAAAAA4c/shuGDjD2GfI/s1600/RON_1623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P-ngguK6000/UhYcC8YGwGI/AAAAAAAAA4c/shuGDjD2GfI/s1600/RON_1623.jpg" height="223" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... :)</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span> </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m_u12-CClkE/UhYcOUWMrxI/AAAAAAAAA4k/Bru5Yafpd3E/s1600/RON_1669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m_u12-CClkE/UhYcOUWMrxI/AAAAAAAAA4k/Bru5Yafpd3E/s1600/RON_1669.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">on the way to the pass...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1AwN3VK3_a8/UhYcakfd_SI/AAAAAAAAA4s/R62X63QL0wo/s1600/RON_1708_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1AwN3VK3_a8/UhYcakfd_SI/AAAAAAAAA4s/R62X63QL0wo/s1600/RON_1708_b.jpg" height="235" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the pass itself with his millions of boulders...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fh6moQtNLaI/UhYcnKcTeqI/AAAAAAAAA40/b9IL9Ie1Pvo/s1600/RON_1675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fh6moQtNLaI/UhYcnKcTeqI/AAAAAAAAA40/b9IL9Ie1Pvo/s1600/RON_1675.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the road down to Clanwilliam... </td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">cheers<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-52536676724485227222013-07-09T16:44:00.000+02:002013-07-09T16:44:06.803+02:00The last daysPhuuu... it's going fast now. In less than two weeks I will be back in the Rocklands. Yesss!! :) <br />
I'm really excitet and I'm wondering, how it looks like down there in the meantime. Sure... the boulders are the same. I assume that it hasn't rained new boulders since then in 2005. :)<br />
<br />
Oh man... it's quite a long time ago and many things have changed! In 2005 we had still lived on the old campground. As we arrived there on a weekend in August, we were just a few people there. I don't remember exactly how many... but definitely not more than 6 or 7 people. During the weeks we were almost alone up there. Just two french guys, Marc Momet and Fred Sansoz (Liv's brother) stayed at the campsite with us... the whole three weeks. What a great time we had!! So funny! <br />
From time to time we met three Turkish girls, which slept in one of the pakhuises, but that was it for now!! It was a real adventure out there. However, I think that's history. Today it is a huge rush to the Rocklands and we will not have the same experience as eight years ago. But anyway... it will be awesome! ;)<br />
<br />
Some impressions from 2005:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0zhwHaLTiLI/Udwfb_17I5I/AAAAAAAAA0c/Z5rtG7rqS_8/s1600/camp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0zhwHaLTiLI/Udwfb_17I5I/AAAAAAAAA0c/Z5rtG7rqS_8/s1600/camp.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost alone...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9UuKFFesFQU/UdwfuSQuw8I/AAAAAAAAA0k/hsfv4Kxis0U/s1600/bb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9UuKFFesFQU/UdwfuSQuw8I/AAAAAAAAA0k/hsfv4Kxis0U/s1600/bb.jpg" height="283" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fred enjoys the scenery...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9qlFLZuy1go/UdwgBMMyXSI/AAAAAAAAA0s/B67MZPYTezQ/s1600/yy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9qlFLZuy1go/UdwgBMMyXSI/AAAAAAAAA0s/B67MZPYTezQ/s1600/yy.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wild life... :)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dUSGCe_ZHcc/UdwgOrVB6hI/AAAAAAAAA00/NHP9ZoeWnNI/s1600/xx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dUSGCe_ZHcc/UdwgOrVB6hI/AAAAAAAAA00/NHP9ZoeWnNI/s1600/xx.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and some climbing too...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1yMNkZlhjKk/UdwgW6PqjwI/AAAAAAAAA08/K3S6gDLwLjM/s1600/vv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1yMNkZlhjKk/UdwgW6PqjwI/AAAAAAAAA08/K3S6gDLwLjM/s1600/vv.jpg" height="272" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We will be back soon...!! :)</td></tr>
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<br />
<br />
So I didn't climbed much the last days and I will not do much more the next two weeks. I want to be completely recovered when I arrive in South Africa. <br />
<br />
But I was not quite idly. Last week I climbed two lines at the Sustenpass. The first one was "<strong>Fred's, 8A+</strong>", which I almost climbed the first day I tried it. But it was at the end of a long and hard bouldersession and therefore I was not able to finish it up. <br />
The second day then i just needed a short warmup and after the first real try I stood on the top. Felt pretty soft for 8A+... but it is definitely my style. It's hard to rate anything, which fit's me perfectly. But no matter... <br />
<br />The same evening I changed to Martin's big "<strong>Highlander-project</strong>" at the Traumland-bloc and tried the first part of it. It's a traverse to the left into "<strong>Traumland, 8A</strong>". I came pretty close, but had not enough power left. <br />
Three days later I went up to the Sustenpass again, despite of some little risk for rain. When I arrived, everything was in dense fog and some holds on the bloc were still wet from the rain the two days before. One of the holds of the traverse I had to dry... otherwise the traverse would not be possible. At least with my solution. But it worked well and some attemps later I reached the startholds of "Traumland"... even if completely destroyed.<br />
<br />Cool... two nice problems before my trip to the Rocklands. And both with very little effort. The shape should be good... the Rocklands can come...!!! ;o))<br />
<br />cheers<br />
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Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-23625876126126592882013-06-19T15:23:00.004+02:002013-06-20T10:15:17.322+02:00I LOVE IT...!!!The last days we'd over 30°C. On Moday and Thuesday about 35°C and today at least a bit lower. Crazy... just some days ago we still had 15°C and some weeks ago still some snow!!!!! ;)<br />
<br />
Anyway... in most of the popular spots you just can't climb in these conditions and therefore I had to watch for an alternative area. Totally clear that I had to have a look to my other project on the Sustenpass: "<strong>Reykyavik low</strong>". In the meantime the barrier is open and it is possible to drive up to the "Sustenbrüggli", where most of the boulders are located. The pass itself is still closed and accordingly there is no traffic up there. Just you, the rock, the calm and the splendid ambience.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e81yQo8eVaQ/UcGue8p15rI/AAAAAAAAAzk/Uc2Wic9SoS0/s1600/0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e81yQo8eVaQ/UcGue8p15rI/AAAAAAAAAzk/Uc2Wic9SoS0/s1600/0.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
As I arrived up there it was 19°C (15°C as I leaved). Just some other cars parked there and a few people sat in the restaurant Sustenbrüggli. There is still quite some snow around... but most of the boulders are climbable. <br />
Firstly I walked down to boulder without any pads... armed only with a shovel. I wanted to check first, if some work for the dropzone is needed. And it was... not much, but I had to shovel a bit as a warmup. Luckily "Reykyavik low" is on the southern side of the boulder. The side to the north was still deep in the snow and no lines on this side would have been possible. Afterwards I went back to the car and picked up the pads and everything else I needed.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SWBShz-wiCM/UcGu_6ewKCI/AAAAAAAAAzs/5hXGHD_D0bc/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SWBShz-wiCM/UcGu_6ewKCI/AAAAAAAAAzs/5hXGHD_D0bc/s1600/2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just the sunny southern side is free of snow...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GN8E6MGHTVs/UcGvSRL_U9I/AAAAAAAAAz0/o_5hTMgrKo8/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GN8E6MGHTVs/UcGvSRL_U9I/AAAAAAAAAz0/o_5hTMgrKo8/s1600/3.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some warmup first... ;)</td></tr>
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<br />
Back at the boulder I arranged everything and sat down... just to enjoy the scenery a little. I really love it up here...!!! Especially in such nice conditions, when no other people are here, the blue sky above you, the setting sun, which puts a golden light over the surrounded mountains... you can't hear anything... no cars, no voices, just the wind and your breath. <br />
In these moments I like to be alone. For me it's sometimes not just the sportive challange when I go bouldering. Such moments give me a lot more!! They will take you back to your center and ground yourself. I would never want to miss such moments.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7C6gB16JHAo/UcGvlqliK3I/AAAAAAAAAz8/M4doQTZlSrw/s1600/10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7C6gB16JHAo/UcGvlqliK3I/AAAAAAAAAz8/M4doQTZlSrw/s1600/10.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful scenery... firstly in a golden and later on in a deep blue light.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cNJiIOE5Mek/UcGv34bSJ6I/AAAAAAAAA0E/MQZH6WPUF2Y/s1600/11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cNJiIOE5Mek/UcGv34bSJ6I/AAAAAAAAA0E/MQZH6WPUF2Y/s1600/11.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I LIKE....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Later on I started to warmup. Because of the snow I had no other option to warmup than on "Reykyavik, 8A+/8B" itself. Some goes... some breaks... a few sips of an ice-cooled beer... and an hour later I repeated the original line quite easily. CRAZY!! Totally unexpected. I just wanted to check out the moves a bit to get used to the moves again. But it worked pretty well and I was even able to reposition my left hand hanging in the badest crimp in the whole line, what was absolutely impossible the last year. Unbelievable!!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NluAzzqES6E/UcGwIUekWwI/AAAAAAAAA0M/4SVVxeRPKK0/s1600/8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NluAzzqES6E/UcGwIUekWwI/AAAAAAAAA0M/4SVVxeRPKK0/s1600/8.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Prost Mahlzeit!!"... with an ice-cooled beer. ;)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Half an hour later I started at the "low-start" and checked out these moves. But the first hard move was simply not possible. I took a few more tries, felt some little pain in a muscle of my left arm and finished for the day, just to do not take any risk for any rupture. I would have been highly motivated, but had to stop myself not to pull too hard. <br />
<br />
I'm really happy with this start into the Susten-season. Who knows... probably some more good FA-news will follow in the next days. ;) <br />
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<br />
cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-79900162601429731762013-06-14T09:54:00.001+02:002013-06-18T10:54:08.469+02:00Murgtal BouldersHi all,<br />
<br />
In the past two years many new lines were added to Murgtal. Not just by myself. Yesterday I got a topo from <strong>Adrian Waibel</strong> and was asked to publish it in my blog. Sure... I will!! <br />
<br />
Thanks a lot guys for your work and the ever growing number of new boulders at Murgtal. <br />
<br />
<br />
Adrian's words:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">"Hello fellow Murgtal boulderers,<br />Over the last few weeks my friends and I cleaned and freed the big boulder 50m right of the Love & Pain boulder (exact coordinates in the topo) and added 10 cool new lines to the ever growing number of problems there. To the best of our knowledge, they were all first ascents. (Except maybe the slab since we discovered an old piton for top-roping on top).<br />We hope you enjoy these new additions and are awaiting your feedback on grades and what not.<br />Cheers, Adrian"</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;"></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EesXwthYO2E/UbrLqU46MpI/AAAAAAAAAws/5fRYDpZsiQE/s1600/murgblocA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EesXwthYO2E/UbrLqU46MpI/AAAAAAAAAws/5fRYDpZsiQE/s1600/murgblocA.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /><strong>EDIT:</strong>Some of the boulders seem to have a wrong grading (they're easier). An updated topo will follow soon.<br /><br /><br />cheers<br />
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Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-14048069420279082032013-06-13T11:36:00.001+02:002022-04-24T23:11:23.184+02:00Charon's ObolusFINALLYYYYYY...!!<br />
<br />
After about 13 days this year and a few days last year the hard work in this new line at the "Love & Pain bloc" in Murgtal have finally paid off. Several days I was really close and fell at the last moves. But there were also some days, were nothing worked and I was just not able to even do or link the first crux-moves. It ended in a similar fight like the last year with my uncountable tries in "Reykyavik low" (still a project)... but this time with a fruitful end. I'm pretty sure that I'm not in my best shape at the moment and that it could be possible, to do this line faster. I was already close the last year... but in the end it went into a huge battle against "Charon" and myself. I'm very happy to add such an epic line to this area. It's not the nicest boulder... but the line itself with his ingenious moves is a pleasure to climb and real testpiece. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lg1rVQNXmWk/UbmQS03zXTI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/j183RqYkk1E/s1600/Charon_Mai+2013_small.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lg1rVQNXmWk/UbmQS03zXTI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/j183RqYkk1E/s1600/Charon_Mai+2013_small.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">myself in the first crux-moves of <strong>"Charon's Obolus, 8B"</strong>... pic by Aldo Tonazzi.</td></tr>
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The line starts at <strong>"Painful love, 7b+", </strong>traverses to the left on small crimps and slopy holds until the quite big side-hold in the middle of the overhanging wall. The finish goes over the small crimps from <strong>"No pain no gain, 7B/7B+"</strong> to the very left of the boulder.<br />
<br />
To the name:<br />
<strong>Charon</strong>, in Greek mythology, the son of Erebus (darkness) and Nyx (Night), whose duty it was to ferry over the Rivers Styx and Acheron those souls of the deceased who had received the rites of burial. In payment he received the coin (<strong>Obolus</strong>) that was placed in the mouth of the corpse.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G5WK-ZEfLxk/UbmRnBa-c1I/AAAAAAAAAwc/xJc-hC8P8Ww/s1600/charon_1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G5WK-ZEfLxk/UbmRnBa-c1I/AAAAAAAAAwc/xJc-hC8P8Ww/s1600/charon_1.jpg" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Grade:<br />
I'm not sure if the line deserves 8B. But the many days I've spent and the comparison to other 8B's I've climbed, i really think that this boulder is harder than all the others (including "Delusion" this spring, which I made much faster and definitely felt easier). But who knows... I would not be surprised, if one of the STRONG guys out there is doing it in a few tries. Would be nice to get some feedback!<br />
<br />
A short movie Iv'e recorded will follow soon (added tho this entry).<br />
<br />
<strong>EDIT:</strong><br /><a href="https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ai--NZG33VDgmT5th8ZSdS2kLjUd?e=X3lOE5">Ronny in Charon's Obolus 8B FA</a><br />
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cheers<br />
A happy Daddy :)<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-12378000669710118262013-05-03T12:31:00.000+02:002013-05-03T13:23:02.024+02:00TaurusJust as an info:<br />
Murgtal has now really started. The barrier is open since a few days. On Monday this week the barrier was still closed... but on Wednesday it was possible to drive up to the lake.<br />
<br />
Last Monday Aldo and myself went up to Murgtal, despite of some risk for rain. Luckily it stayed dry and we were able to start some new projects. Aldo wanted to have a look to my boulder "<strong>Sojus, 7C+</strong>" and myself wanted to have a look to another variant to Sojus, which was still unclimbed.<br />
As I climbed "Sojus", I was not able to upload some pictures for this blog. Now I can give you some impressions of this boulder. ;)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rLKsaT6pMyI/UYOIKlkh5bI/AAAAAAAAAvA/0P0ZTYOmx_Y/s1600/DSC_0014_d_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rLKsaT6pMyI/UYOIKlkh5bI/AAAAAAAAAvA/0P0ZTYOmx_Y/s1600/DSC_0014_d_small.jpg" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aldo is trying Sojus...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3oBb0j4Vl7Y/UYOI73WnXPI/AAAAAAAAAvM/8qbapiwLLtA/s1600/DSC_0082_c_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3oBb0j4Vl7Y/UYOI73WnXPI/AAAAAAAAAvM/8qbapiwLLtA/s1600/DSC_0082_c_small.jpg" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same position, other view...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FFLCW4EPLow/UYOIanLK-VI/AAAAAAAAAvI/Y3gKtjPd6Ys/s1600/DSC_0037_d_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FFLCW4EPLow/UYOIanLK-VI/AAAAAAAAAvI/Y3gKtjPd6Ys/s1600/DSC_0037_d_small.jpg" height="400" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself before the last move up to the final jug (dyno)...</td></tr>
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In the last picture you can see the final jug, quite a distance above the last holds. It is not possible to get it statically... you definitely have to jump! <br />
This is also the reason for the name "Sojus". Sojus is a Russian carrier rocket and also for this last move you have to ignite the rocket. :)<br />
<br />
While Aldo tried Sojus, I started to work on another variant to it. It is possible to start at "Chüngel, 7C", cross "Sex & the city, 6C+" and do then the final crux moves of "Sojus, 7C+". This start-variant has some more moves and feels a bit harder than the original start at Sex & the city. To get a comparison I did this version again, but the difference is not big and the new line could also be the same grade. <br />
<br />
Anyway... a few attempts later I got the final jug and added "<strong>Taurus, 8A</strong>" as a new line to this nice boulder. Compared to other lines at Murgtal I think 8A is appropriate, but the future will show the truth.<br />
Also Taurus is a carrier rocket... however, an American. ;)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0YUBMK9dLQI/UYORN1w_clI/AAAAAAAAAvc/Prws1VDoONU/s1600/DSC_0048_b_small_lines.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0YUBMK9dLQI/UYORN1w_clI/AAAAAAAAAvc/Prws1VDoONU/s1600/DSC_0048_b_small_lines.jpg" height="400" width="262" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">red: "Taurus, 8A"<br />
yellow: "Sojus, 7C+"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-78684766097288571822013-04-23T17:25:00.000+02:002013-05-03T13:23:56.152+02:00Crack wayThe last weekend we had stable cloudy weather without any rain, although the weather forecast had predicted rain for the whole two days. Because my girlfriend had spent the entire weekend with friends in Milan, I was not able to make use of these nice conditions.<br />
<br />
On Sunday evening then it started to rain. Ohhh man!! Nevertheless, I was hoping for a dry Monday and the possibility to make use of the still cool temps in the evening. Luckily the rain had stopped in the morning and in the evening, when I arrived in Morschach, I found perfect conditions (dry 8-10°C) for a possible last go for my project up there. <br />
<br />
Who knows… now, by end of April, it’s getting warm pretty fast. Today we already have up to 17°C, tomorrow 21° and on Thursday it will have up to 24°C. Way too hot for Morschach. ;)<br />
<br />
So then… the omens were good. I just had to do it. Firstly a warmup and about half an hour later the first real attempts. Unfortunately, I didn’t felt better than the last days in this line and I had still problems to link the moves together. After a few more bad than good tries I was forced to look for a simpler solution and tried some new beta without much success. <br />
<br />
Then the brainstorm…! What a stupid idiot I was…!!!! Since days now I was trying an unnecessarily complicated solution. Why the hell I didn’t realized it earlier!!!! Anyway… four attempts later I reached the target-hold and freed the Snow White from the deep sleep. Yesss!!<br />
<br />
As I know, this line was never climbed before. If someone knows it better, please send me an info.<br />
<br />
Six days of work for the “Crack way, 7C+”. Five of the six days I simply tied a stupid beta. I’m pretty sure I could climb it in one or two days, if I would have been able to recognize the only logical solution earlier. Anyway… now it isn’t an 8A or even harder, it’s “just” a 7C+ in the end or even 7C (not sure)… but a really beautiful one. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rgbHSYPlySA/UXank0RJYWI/AAAAAAAAAuc/6UGDp9wGU30/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rgbHSYPlySA/UXank0RJYWI/AAAAAAAAAuc/6UGDp9wGU30/s1600/2.jpg" height="276" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">little change...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m4DXEKssYRg/UXanqMTrLXI/AAAAAAAAAuk/gjYDxEZjWeE/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m4DXEKssYRg/UXanqMTrLXI/AAAAAAAAAuk/gjYDxEZjWeE/s1600/1.jpg" height="272" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...big difference. ;)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
With the name "Crack way" I wanted a link / reference to the original line "Crossed road". In the end it’s the same boulder without usage of the arete on the left, but only with the crack itself.<br />
<br />
Still undone is a sit start to both of them. I had already a (very) short look to it and I think that it should be possible, but very very difficult (~8B)!<br />
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-12603742280429247662013-04-17T16:00:00.001+02:002013-04-18T11:21:31.682+02:00MorschachThe last days I went up to Morschach, which is 5 minutes away from my home town. The time window to visit this area is very small. In spring the temperatures are fastly above the "good conditions" and in autumn you have to wait quite a long time until the temps are low enough for a visit. Additionally all the boulders are in a forest. After rain it could need up to two or three days until the boulders are dry... depending on wind and sunlight.<br />
<br />
Anyway... the last weeks we had really nice conditions up there and I did a few nice boulder problems of medium difficulty. <br />
<br />
Up there is a classic boulder from Fred Nicole, which is called "<strong>L'ame soeur, 8A+</strong>". It starts at the line "<strong>Vocis terra, 7C</strong>", but traverses to the left after the first moves and goes up to the top in the middle of the boulder. <br />
Firstly I climbed "Vocis terra"... a fantastic line!!! This one follows an about 5 up to 6 meters high arete with a tricky move to the top. It would be definitely one of the famous classic lines in Ticino, if this one would be down there.<br />
After my ascent I started to work on "L'ame soeur" and managed to do all the moves until the three. The problem is that you have to do a huge dynamic move to a far hold from there, directly between the rock and a three behind you. If you fall at this move, you may will have a problem then. That could very likely end up with an injury. It is definitely not possible to spot there. This may be the reason, why Fred climbed the line toprope and no one has repeated it since then.<br />
<br />
To have a look to this move you must have a partner and try the move one a rope. Unfortunately I wasn't able to have a look on it... but no matter, I'll give it some tries next autumn.<br />
<br />
Afterwards I started to work on an undone line directly to the left of "Vocis terra". The original line is called "<strong>Crossed road, 7A</strong>" and follows the arete on the left together with a small crack on the right. I started to try the line without the left arete just using the crack. It is a three-move problem with some tricky foot changes and every move is getting harder than the one before. As I know this variant is still undone and it seems that this line will be pretty hard.<br />
As I started to work on it I was fastly able to climb all the moves expect the last one. So I thought that it will give a quite short story. By now I was five or six days in the line and I'm still not able to climb it. I had some good looking days as also some really disappointing days. The last one was the worst one... I was even not possible to do the foot changes after the first move, which I did without any problems the days before. And the real crux is starting only then. ;)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qMAZ7ucXEWU/UW6opp-denI/AAAAAAAAAtM/LgV9hxTz9Tg/s1600/Crack2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qMAZ7ucXEWU/UW6opp-denI/AAAAAAAAAtM/LgV9hxTz9Tg/s1600/Crack2.jpg" height="271" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">body position after the second move...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I'm starting the boulder with a stand start. A sitstart should be possible... but i'm pretty sure that a sitstart will be extremely hard (~8B+).<br />
Even the standstart feels very hard. Fristly I thought that it will be about 7c+ to 8A. Now I'm thinking more in direction of 8A+.... no idea. It is really difficult to assess, due to the few moves, but it feels definitely as one of the hardest I've climbed the last time. BUT... it is absolutely possible that someone is coming, which is climbing it the first try and grade it 7C...!! Veni vidi vici... ;o))<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LJYYWVxGm0o/UW-60x8HSMI/AAAAAAAAAtc/12jfa9DGmNI/s1600/Zwischenablage01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LJYYWVxGm0o/UW-60x8HSMI/AAAAAAAAAtc/12jfa9DGmNI/s1600/Zwischenablage01.jpg" height="400" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a) Crossed road 7A<br />
b) L'ame soeur 8A+<br />
c) Vocis Terra 7C</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Anyway... now it changed fastly and the temps (24°C) are too high for that boulder, respectively for the whole area... at least at the moment.<br />
Let's go back in autumn... now I like to restart some projects up at Murgtal.<br />
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-49982894231644987672013-04-09T13:38:00.001+02:002013-04-10T12:22:57.716+02:00The DiagnosisO.k. then... looks not too bad my finger. But also not good.<br />
<br />
I was now at two different specialists. One of them is close to my hone town and usually my first choice for troubles with my fingers. Dr. Lacher is a hand specialist and -surgeon. The other one was a proposal from Martin Keller. Thanks again! His name is Dr. Andreas Schweizer. <span class="hps">He is</span> <span class="hps">chief physician</span> <span class="hps">of the "hand</span> <span class="hps">department"</span> <span class="hps">at Balgrist University Hospital</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">Zürich</span>. Probably one of the or THE ONE specialist for climbing injuries on the hand in Swizzy. He's pulling very hard too (up to 8c climbing) and<span class="hps"> also makes</span> <span class="hps">research on</span> <span class="hps">the biomechanics</span> <span class="hps">of the hand</span> <span class="hps">while climbing.</span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps">Anyway... in the end I got two different diagnoses.</span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps"><strong>Diagnosis of Dr. Schweizer (on 3. April):</strong></span><br />
<span class="hps">Arthrosis at my age would be very atypical. Also atypical would be a strong degeneration of cartillage. In general climbers usually get rather a thicker layer of cartilage, as also stronger bones at their fingers. He just knows two or three examples (climbers) with arthrosis. If their arthosis is coming from climbing is still unsure (is usually genetic).</span><br />
<span class="hps">Arthrosis usually starts in the older age of 40 or 45. This nodules on my joint have nothing to do with arthosis... but with an adaption of the bone to the climbing.</span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MC3z2_tjgoI/UWP0qC0B_XI/AAAAAAAAAsc/9BK_0hFzwbU/s1600/cart1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MC3z2_tjgoI/UWP0qC0B_XI/AAAAAAAAAsc/9BK_0hFzwbU/s1600/cart1.jpg" height="148" width="320" /></a></div>
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps">In this picture you can see a usual joint (blue). Special at many climbers is the adaption of the bone in red. In the beginning this is still cartilage. After many years it hardens and becomes bone.</span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_lH5HImuR10/UWP1dDApgtI/AAAAAAAAAsk/B_xLvq7BLTU/s1600/cart2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_lH5HImuR10/UWP1dDApgtI/AAAAAAAAAsk/B_xLvq7BLTU/s1600/cart2.jpg" height="151" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="hps">The following picture shows, why the bone adapts. The contact surface is getting larger with this additional bone mass, if you bend the finger.</span><br />
<span class="hps">The "problem" is that if you unbend it the cartilage can be pushed back (black). If this happens often, you can get an inflammation. </span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps">In the radiograph nothing was visible. I have still enought cartilage (still big enough joint space). But some additional bone is already visible (first picture).</span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vOw3lDAwebY/UWP3uYzIt6I/AAAAAAAAAs8/SvdJlfOH25w/s1600/Ringfinger+rechts+Seitenansicht.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vOw3lDAwebY/UWP3uYzIt6I/AAAAAAAAAs8/SvdJlfOH25w/s1600/Ringfinger+rechts+Seitenansicht.jpg" height="320" width="124" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RAofQbE8l0k/UWP3n0ciPEI/AAAAAAAAAs0/0zudAZfB5BI/s1600/Ringfinger+rechts+Frontansicht.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RAofQbE8l0k/UWP3n0ciPEI/AAAAAAAAAs0/0zudAZfB5BI/s1600/Ringfinger+rechts+Frontansicht.jpg" height="320" width="111" /></a></div>
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps">We also made an ultrasound scan of the finger. The additional cartilage (red part above) was even better visible. But because of the fact that most of this adaption is still cartilage, it is just visible in the ultrasound scan. </span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps">The <strong>conclusion</strong> of Dr. Schweizer:</span><br />
<span class="hps"><strong>I can climb! No Arthrosis! Usual for climbers. Just some inflammation because of the reason mentioned above. It may be that the pain goes away soon, but it also may be that I have to climb the rest of my life with some pain. </strong></span><br />
<span class="hps"><strong></strong></span><br />
<span class="hps"><strong>The reason for my huge pain some weeks ago was the fact that a part of this additional bone (still cartilage / red part in the drawing) was broken off (visible in the ultrasound scan). This is no problem and it will grow back.</strong></span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps"><strong>The second doctor, Dr. Lacher (on 4. April)</strong>, just told me that it is <strong>arthrosis in the initial stage</strong>. He just had a look to the radiograph and didn't made any further inspection (ultrasound etc.). As I told him the outcome of my visit at Balgrist he just told me that this could be... but in the end it is still arthrosis in the initial stage.</span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps">The conclusion is the same in the end. It's not possible to do anything. I can climb and should enjoy it as long as possible. If the arthrosis is getting worse (in a few... or many years, who knows), I just can stiffen the finger. </span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps">Funny... two doctors - two different diagnoses...!!!</span><br />
<span class="hps">To be honest, I would rather believe Dr. Schweizer. His diagnosis sounds better and is understandable, he also did better research (ultrasound) and has a lot of experience from his own climbing, as also other climbers and their problems.</span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps">Since some days the pain is back on a similar level as before my last entry (the huge pain). I can climb and crimp... but I should be careful. Extremely overhanging routes with ultrasmall crimps are "passé" I think. The pain then is too big and it makes no sense to take some additional risks... !! </span><br />
<br />
BUT the most important outcome is definitely that I can go on with climbing... AND that I can go for my revival-trip (after 2005) to the Rocklands in July this year. YESSS.... ;)))))<br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps">cheers</span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps"></span><br />
<span class="hps"> </span>Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-91555798863946522392013-03-12T14:51:00.000+01:002013-03-13T11:43:04.653+01:00Knocked out<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Hmmm… it’s not
the first time that I’m injured, but this time it could be the end! Pessimism?
Hopefully… but definitely a possible consequence. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Since
nearly a year I’m climbing with pain in my right index finger. After each
climbing session the end joint hurts. I could climb mostly painless and was not
limited through this pain, except at ultra-small crimps in overhanging routes
(like “La Soucoupe” etc.), but after each climbing session I had some pain and
felt it also a little in everyday life. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">In November
2012 I went to my family doctor and made a radiograph (X-ray). Everything
looked good, with the exception of small calcium deposits. He told me that he
is not able to do anything and that I can proceed climbing. I just should have
a look to it and come back, if the situation worsens. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The
situation remained the same until the last week. After the last boulder-session
(not the hardest one!) I had an extreme pain the next day. Really… it was
almost unbearable! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t know what
happened. I felt the greater pain already during the session… but it was never
as painful as the next morning.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">This week I
started to investigate. I had a few “injuries” in the past and always put the
correct self-diagnosis. This time, all the indications point to an
osteoarthritis (<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Heberden’s arthrosis</b>)
in this joint. Sure… it’s not a final statement! I could still be wrong. But if
it is arthrosis… specifically with a strong degeneration of cartilage, it could
need a long time to recover, if a sufficient improvement is possible at all…!!!
</span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rY08NbhjSeY/UT8xmw9pAcI/AAAAAAAAAsE/dp7Mv1_kMWM/s1600/Finger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rY08NbhjSeY/UT8xmw9pAcI/AAAAAAAAAsE/dp7Mv1_kMWM/s1600/Finger.jpg" height="258" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">typical Heberden nodules on both sides of the joint... and a bit swollen.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></span> </div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">In a few
weeks I’ll have an appointment with a hand specialist (surgeon). Let’s wait
until then… we will see what happens next.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The only
thing is that I’ve planned to go for a revival-trip to the Rocklands this
summer. After I already was there in 2005 (with almost NO CLIMBERS there!), I
postponed this trip since three years now because of the birth of my two sons. It would be pretty brutal, if I had to cancel this trip again. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">But there
were also some good news…! I was able to finish “<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Delusion of grandeur, 8B</b>” the last Monday. This was the next day of
climbing after my last entry. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Firstly I
checked out the unpredictable slab with the rope and climbed these moves a few
times. Luckily the topout over the slab is easy… otherwise I wouldn’t have
tried it alone. But with the confidence gained it was no longer a problem.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">“Delusion
of grandeur” is definitely not the hardest 8B… but for sure one of the nicest
ones!! And if I compare it to other lines, it definitely deserves the grade.
Sure… there were always “easier” routes, which feel “harder”. But the reason
for this is just the question, if it’s your style or not and if you’re actually
in a good shape or not. To take this as a reason for a downgrading is
uncertain. If I had to follow this style of grading, “Conquistadors direct, 8B”
would just be an 8A…! ;)</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">On the
other hand I’m really wondering, why some guys are climbing a shortened version
and downgrade it afterwards, although the first few movements (hands and feet)
are not the easiest ones. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But anyway…! </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I try to
upload a video I made in good quality… let’s have a look if it works.</span></span></div>
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<br />
<a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/104273585133153953271/albums/5854450075235552049/5854450078786037474?authkey=CJS7tp21pfTo3gE">Delusion of grandeur, 8B</a></div>
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</div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Cheers</span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-65910996540049412872013-02-20T12:21:00.002+01:002013-02-20T13:39:06.913+01:00Delusion of grandeur<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">About two weeks ago I
started to work on „<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Delusion of grandeur,
8B</b>”. It’s a beautiful line down in the 101-area… definitely one of the most
aesthetic lines in Chironico. If I had to make a selection of the nicest
looking lines in Chiro, this one would be one of them for sure.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Anyway… I like this
boulder very much and I fit in perfectly. It’s my style… pretty athletic, quite
long but homogenous, without ultra-small crimps but many slopers, some far
moves and a delicate mantel at the top. Yeahh…!! ;)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Another reason why I
like this boulder is the fact that <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">this
line is offering all kind of styles</b> in one route. You start with some <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">bodytension-moves</b> and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">hooks</b> in a roof, followed by a far <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">dynamic move</b> to the first <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">sloper</b>. Afterwards you have to do some
more bodytension-moves hanging on this sloper until you can go for the
middle part… a traverse on a strongly decreasing ramp. After the traverse you
have to do (already pretty tired) a long move to an ok hold followed by some “<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">oldschool-climbing-moves</b>” on good
crimps up to the top (current position in the pic below). The last part then is the topout… a quite <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">tricky mantel</b> over the lip followed by
a 6 or 7 meter <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">slab</b>. And… the line
is not a super-highball, but still <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">pretty
high</b>. The crux for me is the needed <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">endurance</b>
due to the length of the boulder and the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">scary</b>
slab at the end.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-siMruzuVM6c/USSxhRri7aI/AAAAAAAAAqk/L3X-7q74Dwk/s1600/Delusion+of+grandeur+8B+-+pic+by+Nicolas+Delaleu_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-siMruzuVM6c/USSxhRri7aI/AAAAAAAAAqk/L3X-7q74Dwk/s1600/Delusion+of+grandeur+8B+-+pic+by+Nicolas+Delaleu_2.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">picture by Nicolas Delaleu...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Up to now I was 4
days in this boulder. I started to work on it because I met Nicolas Delaleu
some weeks ago, which told me that he is also interested in this line and had
already started to work on it. Especially the fact that he was willing to
invest some evening-sessions was the very first reason for this “cooperation”.
Alone I had never started with this line…</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So the first session
in the line was together with Nicloas. I climbed and Nico took some pictures
and told me his beta. Already this evening I felt pretty good and was able to
climb all the sequences except the mantel, which I didn’t tried that evening. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Nicolas is an
aspiring photographer and a very nice guy. Have a look to his homepage if you’re
interested in some more info about him and his work. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><cite><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="http://www.nicolasdelaleu.ch/"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-style: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">www.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-style: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">nicolasdelaleu</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-style: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">.ch</span></span></a></span></cite></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The second and third
day I was alone at the boulder. The goal was to improve my beta for all the
sequences and put them together. The third evening I was already able to climb
the whole line up to the top and therefore I decided to give it some real tries
the next climbing day. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The problem is that
you really need either enough pads (at least three big pads) or a spotter, which
has to move the pads around. But because of the scary and not safe finish, it
is highly recommended to have a spotter. So I asked some guys to come down to
this line with me and give me a spot.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Luckily all of them
were willing to do so and yesterday was the first day that I could go for an ascent.
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Big thanks to Nicolas again</b>, which
just arrived for spotting. He didn’t climbed because of his planned climbing
today at “<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">I portici, 8A+</b>” in Osogna.
This is real motivation and incredibly nice…!!! </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The outcome of my
session yesterday was, that I climbed up to the top again, tried the mantel… AAAAND
lost the hook and fell down. I’m very happy with this… it was pretty close and
could just as well work. It just showed me that it could happen every day. Want
to go back soooooon….!!!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Afterwards I went for
the mantel. The idea was, to do the whole mantel onto the slab and do the final
few meters too. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">BUT hey… do not laugh
now!! ;)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I mantled up, stood
there with the slab in front of me and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">a
deep black void in my back</b>, which threatened to suck me. FUUUUUCKED UP… I
just lost all my confidence and readiness in this moment, despite of a spotter.
It’s really crazy up there! The slab in front of you has NO holds. The position
there is definitive not the highest one (about 4 up to 5 meters). The big crux is
the unpredictable slab and the fact that the drop zone below you is pretty
small and behind of this drop zone (it’s like a podium) it goes down for
another 1 or 2 meters with following sloping terrain and some threes. Phuuuu… a
scary chicken I was!! I was just able to go back down. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">First of all I need
to check out that moves up there on a rope. Really!!! Afterwards I will be able
to give it some more tires… but just then. ;)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">cheers<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-70608139364688872662013-02-13T16:52:00.001+01:002013-02-14T09:15:23.437+01:00Short trip to Marocco<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">
</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">By end of January (24th to 29th) we made a short trip
to Marrakech and surroundings. Our first real vacation without our two kids.
Another reason why I didn't climbed much in the last time. ;)</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I really can recommend to have a look to this famous
city. Especially the "Medina" (old town) is an experience! All the local people are
hanging around on the famous square "Jamaa el Fna" day by day.
Especially in the evening, thousands of people are on the square. About 90% of
all the people are locals from Marrakech itself and other Maroccans. The whole
square is full of life, dozens of local artists, musicians and game organizers
are entertaining the visitors. You've also dozens of different food-tents where
the Maroccans go for dinner and all the small shops (Souks) are open until late
evening.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The "Medina" is huge!! Full of alleyways with thousands of little shops and the typical Souks... you can easily get lost there. You've to be careful too with the local people. Every half an hour someone like to sell their hashhish. All the locals usually don't like to be photographed. Most of the sellers try to entice you in their shops. In every alley someone try so show you around or show you the right way back to your hotel or "Riad"... if you follow, you have to pay them afterwards. Everyone wants to pull the money out of your pocket... and many of them can be pretty aggressive. But latest after a day you're used to it and can take it easy. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">It's an adventure...!! </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">You feel around 500 years back and can experience an
unique culture…! ;)<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Some impressions:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">
</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H4OzftPMYdk/URuxw3la87I/AAAAAAAAAnk/4IDIc2W2g_I/s1600/DSC_0110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H4OzftPMYdk/URuxw3la87I/AAAAAAAAAnk/4IDIc2W2g_I/s1600/DSC_0110.jpg" height="132" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Marocco</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wT3B4lTn4Kc/URuwTY5JHyI/AAAAAAAAAnM/cqFc2KPYKDc/s1600/DSC_0029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wT3B4lTn4Kc/URuwTY5JHyI/AAAAAAAAAnM/cqFc2KPYKDc/s1600/DSC_0029.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Famous "Jamaa el Fna" in Marrakech during afternoon...</span></td></tr>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span></tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-heGQhtvACqk/URuwrPSVbmI/AAAAAAAAAnU/dgyrSFFxhbs/s1600/DSC_0106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-heGQhtvACqk/URuwrPSVbmI/AAAAAAAAAnU/dgyrSFFxhbs/s1600/DSC_0106.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">
</span>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Same place, other view... bit later in the afternoon. But still nothing compared with late evening, when thousands of people are "on the road".</span> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ROHpTxbw9Q/URuxi_xiMyI/AAAAAAAAAnc/x88EJTZC9V0/s1600/DSC_0449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ROHpTxbw9Q/URuxi_xiMyI/AAAAAAAAAnc/x88EJTZC9V0/s1600/DSC_0449.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Fresh orange juice...</span> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zLgedZ8-cgg/URux_HKzfwI/AAAAAAAAAns/LOgyOXWhQfI/s1600/DSC_0454_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zLgedZ8-cgg/URux_HKzfwI/AAAAAAAAAns/LOgyOXWhQfI/s1600/DSC_0454_b.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Musicians...</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DFG_xH7qL8w/URuyp86DZrI/AAAAAAAAAn8/u4An47UX_sI/s1600/DSC_0455.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DFG_xH7qL8w/URuyp86DZrI/AAAAAAAAAn8/u4An47UX_sI/s1600/DSC_0455.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Games...</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--R-f_-sWh9k/URuy7J_JeZI/AAAAAAAAAoE/yZtP7kNYtCI/s1600/DSC_0123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--R-f_-sWh9k/URuy7J_JeZI/AAAAAAAAAoE/yZtP7kNYtCI/s1600/DSC_0123.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Food... or whatever it is... ;)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">They're eating acorns like we're eating chestnuts (marrons)...</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SFmblbzrXyE/URuzaz5OtCI/AAAAAAAAAoM/apDp2rNue84/s1600/DSC_0274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SFmblbzrXyE/URuzaz5OtCI/AAAAAAAAAoM/apDp2rNue84/s1600/DSC_0274.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I prefer something else...</span> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IK177FTlxbE/URuz0cjhu3I/AAAAAAAAAoU/xB7cmQNkoZc/s1600/DSC_0125_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IK177FTlxbE/URuz0cjhu3I/AAAAAAAAAoU/xB7cmQNkoZc/s1600/DSC_0125_b.jpg" height="255" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0LCNsNsdXLo/URuz83PUxkI/AAAAAAAAAoc/vR3MSWmFdVg/s1600/DSC_0128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0LCNsNsdXLo/URuz83PUxkI/AAAAAAAAAoc/vR3MSWmFdVg/s1600/DSC_0128.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Uncountable shops... or better said "Souks".</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XH9V9N6HSsw/URu0ZOWLbII/AAAAAAAAAok/WxrGjQlSF3g/s1600/DSC_0063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XH9V9N6HSsw/URu0ZOWLbII/AAAAAAAAAok/WxrGjQlSF3g/s1600/DSC_0063.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jEpQjSHlb74/URu0kZSr14I/AAAAAAAAAos/FI9uqYTXW2o/s1600/DSC_0249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jEpQjSHlb74/URu0kZSr14I/AAAAAAAAAos/FI9uqYTXW2o/s1600/DSC_0249.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hETvu82-z-w/URu0uL-4tHI/AAAAAAAAAo0/nuEp3qCbSaI/s1600/DSC_0361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hETvu82-z-w/URu0uL-4tHI/AAAAAAAAAo0/nuEp3qCbSaI/s1600/DSC_0361.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">another district in Marrakech (still in the "Medina")...</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVIBigEichw/URu1M6KCUrI/AAAAAAAAAo8/xPNHSOVw1TA/s1600/DSC_0156_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVIBigEichw/URu1M6KCUrI/AAAAAAAAAo8/xPNHSOVw1TA/s1600/DSC_0156_b.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Maroccan bus stop...</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HX-3QFLcPZQ/URu1Zi5_iqI/AAAAAAAAApE/cpuBO8Zkj5U/s1600/DSC_0151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HX-3QFLcPZQ/URu1Zi5_iqI/AAAAAAAAApE/cpuBO8Zkj5U/s1600/DSC_0151.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U_YdceC5FBc/URu1fyPvlmI/AAAAAAAAApM/rRDASipFhoM/s1600/DSC_0162_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U_YdceC5FBc/URu1fyPvlmI/AAAAAAAAApM/rRDASipFhoM/s1600/DSC_0162_b.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eKT4agxFE8I/URu1oBQgVeI/AAAAAAAAApU/bGW7ykcGQoc/s1600/DSC_0081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eKT4agxFE8I/URu1oBQgVeI/AAAAAAAAApU/bGW7ykcGQoc/s1600/DSC_0081.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">This was from a one day trip to "Essaouira". An little old town by the sea...</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oU_f5BlnAoY/URu2A36ZE3I/AAAAAAAAApc/1zFXKYKZAiE/s1600/DSC_0044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oU_f5BlnAoY/URu2A36ZE3I/AAAAAAAAApc/1zFXKYKZAiE/s1600/DSC_0044.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QeSh9avQSio/URu2QjDWGdI/AAAAAAAAAps/-OOz--jJUdI/s1600/DSC_0172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QeSh9avQSio/URu2QjDWGdI/AAAAAAAAAps/-OOz--jJUdI/s1600/DSC_0172.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">no comment... :)</span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tP4GEpe9PAs/URu2dLxR-0I/AAAAAAAAAp0/BOl7byuHFvQ/s1600/DSC_0159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tP4GEpe9PAs/URu2dLxR-0I/AAAAAAAAAp0/BOl7byuHFvQ/s1600/DSC_0159.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CA-GDPRwjaU/URu2mgU1deI/AAAAAAAAAp8/71_60by6UoE/s1600/DSC_0125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CA-GDPRwjaU/URu2mgU1deI/AAAAAAAAAp8/71_60by6UoE/s1600/DSC_0125.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-36498236048716280602013-02-11T23:11:00.002+01:002013-02-12T08:53:09.809+01:00Chipping and other stories<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Sorry to all the followers of my blog. <span lang="FR-CH" style="mso-ansi-language: FR-CH;">My last entry is quite a long time ago. But
there is a simple reason for that… </span>I just didn’t climbed a lot in the
last two months. Since mid of December until mid of January I was three or four
days on the rock. Don’t know why… but my motivation was not the highest during
this period. Anyway… a few weeks break or less climbing are important in a
climbing-year and so I made use of this time with a lot of other important
things in life. Family, recreation and other stuff was just more importantly.
;)<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I‘ve just one thing I like to highlight from the past
December. Shortly before „<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Komilator, 8A</b>“
in Chironico was getting chipped, two friends of mine - Aldo Tonazzi and Heinz
Betschart – made a quick ascent of this nice boulder. Nice to see how these two
guys are getting stronger and stronger. Aldo managed to climb several 7C+ and
some 8A’s in 2012 and also Heinz climbed some hard stuff including a first
ascent of „<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Diabolik machine, 7C+</b>“ at
Gottardo and his first 8A with the ascent of Komilator. And he did not „just“
(sorry) the usual solution with the dyno to the huge jug, how most of the others
are climbing this line… no, he climbed the whole thing without the border, the
big hold and the sloper in front of this big hold. CONGRATS to both of them…!! </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HMun4KHoQSk/URlqPK5fNaI/AAAAAAAAAek/XEQcQdGcD-4/s1600/DSC_0012_b_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HMun4KHoQSk/URlqPK5fNaI/AAAAAAAAAek/XEQcQdGcD-4/s1600/DSC_0012_b_small.jpg" height="246" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aldo shortly before his ascent...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QJdygWUzuG0/URluhtpMjaI/AAAAAAAAAfo/-s4rgf35RUw/s1600/DSC_0025_b_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QJdygWUzuG0/URluhtpMjaI/AAAAAAAAAfo/-s4rgf35RUw/s1600/DSC_0025_b_small.jpg" height="248" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heinz in action too...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">But now to the bad part of this story. KOMILATOR IS CHIPPED…
rest in peace…! :(</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’ve no idea how someone can do something! REALLY!!! The
whole Ticino-connection was on the road and looked out for this guy… or these
guys, who knows. They’re <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>just riding for
a fall…!!!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">But hey… I’m really interested in their thinking. Do they
think they had climbed „Komilator, 8A“ now… after the line is chipped…????!!!!!???? As I got the information, this line probably 7b/7b+ now (with the big jug).
Really strange! How is it possible that someone can be so stupid? Or WHY THE
HELL is someone doing something? I’m just overexerted with this question. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I just like to beg everyone: Please do never ever such a
stupid thing! Or do it never again!! There are other people around which like
to climb such classic lines in their original condition… also in the future. You
destroy a part of the bouldering history and it is not possible to undo… !!!!
So please stop it and go cycling, if you’re not able to climb the lines in
their original condition!!!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Mid of January I started to climb my usual two days a week
and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>had a look to two nice problems... „<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Walker on earth, 8A</b>“ and „<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Miss Schweiz, 8A</b>“. Especially Miss
Schweiz is a real pearl and an impressive peace of rock…!!! Nice to tell that I
made short work on both of them and climbed them the same evening. <span lang="FR-CH" style="mso-ansi-language: FR-CH;">Sure… I tried them already some days
before, but I managed to climb <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">MS</b> on
the second and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">WOE</b> on the third
evening. Nice… it seems that I’m back in shape and the rare climbing and lot of
eating during Christmas didn’t made me too lame. :)</span></span></div>
<span lang="FR-CH" style="mso-ansi-language: FR-CH;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Some
pictures from "Miss Schweiz, 8A":</span></span><br />
<span lang="FR-CH" style="mso-ansi-language: FR-CH;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CBrsXeUSQT4/URlr7dvXTdI/AAAAAAAAAe4/ucaS0-WsOio/s1600/DSC_0345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CBrsXeUSQT4/URlr7dvXTdI/AAAAAAAAAe4/ucaS0-WsOio/s1600/DSC_0345.jpg" height="640" width="427" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beauty...!! </td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AKoPraTC-ew/URlsMLp_v6I/AAAAAAAAAfA/pIHpaoAXF7k/s1600/DSC_0407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AKoPraTC-ew/URlsMLp_v6I/AAAAAAAAAfA/pIHpaoAXF7k/s1600/DSC_0407.jpg" height="212" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l9KrPBOVTHo/URlsfo1rlyI/AAAAAAAAAfI/y5nAB7ESNxA/s1600/DSC_0476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l9KrPBOVTHo/URlsfo1rlyI/AAAAAAAAAfI/y5nAB7ESNxA/s1600/DSC_0476.jpg" height="640" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and pretty high!</td></tr>
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<span lang="FR-CH" style="mso-ansi-language: FR-CH;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Cheers<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-90626202298917126512012-12-10T14:21:00.003+01:002013-04-18T11:30:20.935+02:00Conquistadors<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">How crazy is this...!?! <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I climbed “<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Conquistadors direct, 8B</b>” in between of about two hours (over two evening sessions), but I’m not able to climb the “easier” original variant “<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Conquistadors, 8A+</b>”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">How it came about? How is it possible? “Conquistadors, 8A+” is a line to which I think for a long time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The line is a bit remote… and as I usually climb only at evenings, I never found the motivation to walk all the way up to this problem. It’s kind of strange, because of the fact that this line is one of the nicest lines all over Chironico… but to be honest… I’m just A LITTLE LAZY!! ;)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Anyway… some days ago I got a message from an “old” friend. After some conversation he told me that he is working on that problem at the moment… AND the idea to finally have a look to it too was born.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">So I went up there the last Thursday to give it some tries. After I walked around for about 40 MINUTES until I finally found the right way up to the line (how embarrassing! haha), I started to work on the original line for about an hour… until I realized that this problem is requiring quite some wingspan. I am - with my 1.77m and a zero or even negative ape-index - at my full limit or even above that. But it was not just the wingspan… also my body tension was not the best this evening, so that I was just not able to climb sequences and the crux a bit higher up was also not feasible. Aaarghh.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">To cut a long story short… I just switched and tried the harder variant “Conquistadors direct”.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was a bit surprised… but this variant worked MUCH better. After some work on it to get an idea of all the moves including the topout, I realized that it could be possible to climb that beauty the same evening. I was already a bit tired… but have begun to start off the ground. The big crux move dynamically from the left pincher to a slopy sidehold for the right hand worked… but I missed the target at every try or even slipped already from the left pincher. O.k… let’s come back in some days.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Yesterday the conditions were a bit better. It was not as cold as on Thursday (-1°C) and as a consequence it was much more comfortable at the current about +4°C. That sometimes makes quite a difference! If you‘re not in your comfort zone, things can suddenly feel pretty hard just because of you’re freezing. To climb SHIVERING can be quite exhausting…!! ;)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Joking aside… yesterday I felt GREAT and after a warmup on the original line, about half an hour in the direct-variant and some beta-improvements I catched the right sidehold and topped the line out. YEAHHH… what a turbo-ascent!! <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Afterwards I restarted to work on the original and felt bit better. Also this variant could/should work… but is definitely harder for me because of the needed span. Into the direct-version I’m fitting in perfectly and so this variant feels much easier than the original, despite of the higher grade…!! Crazy… but it just shows how physical conditions can belie (deceive) of the grade….!!!! If I would do it like others… I could downgrade it now to 8A. ;) <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Honestly… “Conquistadors direct, 8B” felt pretty soft to me… but after some ascents from Michele Caminati and Dave MacLeod and their grade confirmations, it really seems to be an 8B. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ky1DTTME3_o/UMXdr5KknVI/AAAAAAAAAcc/7xSYEXUry9Q/s1600/DSC_0828_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img bea="true" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ky1DTTME3_o/UMXdr5KknVI/AAAAAAAAAcc/7xSYEXUry9Q/s1600/DSC_0828_b.jpg" height="640" width="427" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the solution to be able to climb the crux moves... the high foot-position...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IItuFNAaef4/UMXfTD9DG-I/AAAAAAAAAc4/jzlDeIA6twQ/s1600/DSC_0815_b_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img bea="true" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IItuFNAaef4/UMXfTD9DG-I/AAAAAAAAAc4/jzlDeIA6twQ/s1600/DSC_0815_b_small.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">before the first crux-move up to the left pincher...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DV2gOlrIGtg/UMXf9kgOpcI/AAAAAAAAAdA/4Im0_y4fpUs/s1600/DSC_0820_b_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img bea="true" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DV2gOlrIGtg/UMXf9kgOpcI/AAAAAAAAAdA/4Im0_y4fpUs/s1600/DSC_0820_b_small.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the second crux...<br />
don't slide away from the pincher and move up right to the next hold... </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x9kvJHB3WyQ/UMXe6DMytPI/AAAAAAAAAco/Agyu4ksHyDY/s1600/DSC_0822_bb_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img bea="true" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x9kvJHB3WyQ/UMXe6DMytPI/AAAAAAAAAco/Agyu4ksHyDY/s1600/DSC_0822_bb_small.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the rest is peanuts... ;) </td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Funny… if I compare this line to my BIG PROJECT on the Sustenpass I just have to say that “Reykyavik low” feels WAAAAY harder to me. Well... must be 8B+ then!! haha </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The future will give an answer. :) <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Cheers <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-918114471798052900.post-77856908548629675592012-12-05T15:15:00.002+01:002012-12-05T15:31:48.657+01:00Failure and SuccessHmmm... could be a bit boring for all of the readers of my blog. But once again a short message to my never ending project "Reykyavik low". ;)<br />
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After I put two more days into the line during November it is still undone. Crazy how many days I spent at this bloc so far. I needed three days to climb the usual sitstart from "<strong>Reykyavik, 8A+/8B</strong>"... but was almost able to finish it the first evening. With this two additional moves it's seems to be a completely other story. JUST TWO MOVES... and not the hardest ones! But I was not able to finish it up during 8 days after the ascent of Reykyavik. <br />
I never spent so much effort in an ascent. But because of the fact that it would be an FA (a really hard one) and a very special one for me personally, I've never wrangled. I really WANTED it...!! <br />
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Anyway... now it's definitely over for the year 2012 and I have to wait for the new season 2013 before I can go for some more run-ups. I will be back as soon as possible...! ;)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YmK-cxZh0bI/UL9RZhUvd3I/AAAAAAAAAa0/FNweP7aeIRc/s1600/Susten.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YmK-cxZh0bI/UL9RZhUvd3I/AAAAAAAAAa0/FNweP7aeIRc/s1600/Susten.jpg" height="298" nea="true" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lot of snow at the Steingletscher-area...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bE7Ibhuu7sg/UL9asunCV3I/AAAAAAAAAb8/842nU-IAWY0/s1600/DSC_0377_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bE7Ibhuu7sg/UL9asunCV3I/AAAAAAAAAb8/842nU-IAWY0/s1600/DSC_0377_b.jpg" height="267" nea="true" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of half a million tries in "Reykyavik low"... ;)</td></tr>
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On the other hand I had a nice success in Chironico the last Friday evening when I was out for a nice bouldering session with friends.<br />
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After I climbed "Blochx Addiciton, 8A" some days/weeks ago, I managed to climb the harder topout-variant "<strong>Pure Addiction, 8A+</strong>" from Guntram after two more days at this bloc. It's a nice version and definitely harder than the original. <br />
Now I can go for Dai's variant with the even harder finish over "Souvenir, 8A"....!! hahaha ;o)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mr78f5Ey5IY/UL9WhPkNVmI/AAAAAAAAAbc/wONkR0gHtpE/s1600/DSC02468_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mr78f5Ey5IY/UL9WhPkNVmI/AAAAAAAAAbc/wONkR0gHtpE/s1600/DSC02468_b.jpg" height="263" nea="true" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the ascent of "Pure Addiciton, 8A+"... pic by Aldo Tonazzi.</td></tr>
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cheers<br />
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<br />Ronny Birchlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09941384282171954123noreply@blogger.com0