Hmmm… it’s not
the first time that I’m injured, but this time it could be the end! Pessimism?
Hopefully… but definitely a possible consequence.
Since
nearly a year I’m climbing with pain in my right index finger. After each
climbing session the end joint hurts. I could climb mostly painless and was not
limited through this pain, except at ultra-small crimps in overhanging routes
(like “La Soucoupe” etc.), but after each climbing session I had some pain and
felt it also a little in everyday life.
In November
2012 I went to my family doctor and made a radiograph (X-ray). Everything
looked good, with the exception of small calcium deposits. He told me that he
is not able to do anything and that I can proceed climbing. I just should have
a look to it and come back, if the situation worsens.
The
situation remained the same until the last week. After the last boulder-session
(not the hardest one!) I had an extreme pain the next day. Really… it was
almost unbearable! I don’t know what
happened. I felt the greater pain already during the session… but it was never
as painful as the next morning.
This week I
started to investigate. I had a few “injuries” in the past and always put the
correct self-diagnosis. This time, all the indications point to an
osteoarthritis (Heberden’s arthrosis)
in this joint. Sure… it’s not a final statement! I could still be wrong. But if
it is arthrosis… specifically with a strong degeneration of cartilage, it could
need a long time to recover, if a sufficient improvement is possible at all…!!!
 |
| typical Heberden nodules on both sides of the joint... and a bit swollen. |
In a few
weeks I’ll have an appointment with a hand specialist (surgeon). Let’s wait
until then… we will see what happens next.
The only
thing is that I’ve planned to go for a revival-trip to the Rocklands this
summer. After I already was there in 2005 (with almost NO CLIMBERS there!), I
postponed this trip since three years now because of the birth of my two sons. It would be pretty brutal, if I had to cancel this trip again.
But there
were also some good news…! I was able to finish “Delusion of grandeur, 8B” the last Monday. This was the next day of
climbing after my last entry.
Firstly I
checked out the unpredictable slab with the rope and climbed these moves a few
times. Luckily the topout over the slab is easy… otherwise I wouldn’t have
tried it alone. But with the confidence gained it was no longer a problem.
“Delusion
of grandeur” is definitely not the hardest 8B… but for sure one of the nicest
ones!! And if I compare it to other lines, it definitely deserves the grade.
Sure… there were always “easier” routes, which feel “harder”. But the reason
for this is just the question, if it’s your style or not and if you’re actually
in a good shape or not. To take this as a reason for a downgrading is
uncertain. If I had to follow this style of grading, “Conquistadors direct, 8B”
would just be an 8A…! ;)
On the
other hand I’m really wondering, why some guys are climbing a shortened version
and downgrade it afterwards, although the first few movements (hands and feet)
are not the easiest ones. But anyway…!
I try to
upload a video I made in good quality… let’s have a look if it works.
Cheers
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