Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi

Monday, April 23, 2012

Second Life

After we got a longer period with low temps, I decided to go back to Ticino to finalize "Second Life, 8A+". In my view... one of the most beautiful and outstanding lines in Chironico.
The chances are not bad... I don't think that the heat will come back soon. So I reckon to get some good days to finish my work on that boulder.

own made pic at an evening session in March...

Last week on Tuesday I've already had a very good try. I climbed the whole thing but dropped on the last but two move. I was so pumped that I wasn't able to hold one of the rare good holds on the left arete. Or better said... I didn't even reached it. Unfortunately it was my third try... so I've used already some power in my tries before. But in such a long boulder (20+ moves) you must have a good endurance and you have to be quite fresh, if you like to climb the whole thing.
The bad on this evening was, that I made a wasteful mistake at my try before... I felt so strong as I went to the left arete, that I really thought to climb it up now. But I loosed a foot on a point I've never awaited it... SHIT HAPPENS! :)

And now on this Saturday the same story again...!!! :(
On my first try I felt so good... I really thought: "That's it!!". But the same as last week... I messed it up because of a stupid mistake.
Than a not so good try where I loosed my feets at the hard middle part... and on my third and last go then, I've almost climbed it again...!!! But just ALMOST!  
Because of the fact that it was my last try again, I've had a lack of power. I climbed up to the LAST HARD MOVE to a really good hold... but was not able to hold on. Sure... there would be one or two moves more to go... but these ones are definitely not the problem when I stick the good hold there.
Why was it not possible to make no errors on my tries before... aaaaarghhhh...

Now it's definitely time to do that beast...!!!! ;o)

Here some nice pics which Aldo made on Saturday...

the hard move in the middle of the traverse...

the hard thing is to stop the huge vigor (dynamics) on quite bad holds...

just bad holds on steep rock... and this after some 15 moves before! ;)


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