Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Triple action with "Double Infraction"

My dear... waht a CRAZY evening I had on Monday!! Aldo and me went up to the Murgtal for another evening session. If it's dry, you can find perfect conditions up there at the moment. Especially at the sector "lake", which is on 1100 meter height. AND... it is open NOW. Yesss....

Anyway... this Monday we firstly went to the 8A-shield at the lower sectors. I started to add a sitstart to this line some days ago, but was not able to finish it that evening. On Monday I needed just two tries to finish it up after I did some warmup-moves before. What a start into this evening...!

With these two additional moves I think that 8A should be appropriate. The usual standstart could be either a soft 8A or a 7C+... no idea. But it definitely makes a difference. Not a big one... but the sitstart is slightly harder for sure.

After about an hour on the 8A-shield we went up to the sector "lake". There I had also open business with the line "Double Infraction, 8A+" which I started to try some days ago. This now was the third day in this line... whereas at the first evening I took just a few tries to get an idea for the different moves. The main problem was the very first move. A reaaaaaly long dynamic move to a quite bad crimp. And... there are almost no footholds... or better said... really small ones. As a consequence one of the problems is, that your feets stay at the wall. If not... it is absolutely impossible to get the far crimp.
To do this first move are two possibilities available. The one, which I expect that Fred has done... and the one from Guntram. At the very first day I tried Gu's variant... but it seemed far away from feasible. Than I tried the other variant and got quite close... but still far away... ;) In the end I decided, that the second variant should be more feasible for me and just gave that one some more tries.
The second day then I started with that variant again... it still felt possible and I got closer, but I was still not able to reach the crimp. After some tries it went worse and I thought, that it probably will need many days and tries to even be able to do that first move this way. So I decided to give Gu's variant another chance. With better shoes then I was suddenly able to do this move, without problems.... and it seems that it was just because of that "new" shoes. It's not incongruous... the footholds are such bad, that the new shoes with a much better sole sticked way better than the shoes I tried it before. Anyway... now I finally found a solution with fits me best but I was too wasted to climb the whole thing despite of the fact that I did the first move now several times.
So far to the story behind...

As we arrived on Monday... I still felt very fresh and was highly motivated after my ascent of the sitstart of the 8A-shield. But up there we met a funny young Autrian guy at the "Double Infraction"-bloc (Arno), which already worked on it. We had a quite long tittle-tattle until I started to put on my GOOD shoes and gave it a first try.
I sat down, put my feet on the wall and climbed the whole line up at my first try...!! CRAZY!!! Not just myself was suprised about that effort... my companions seemed to be impressed too. The mad thing is, that it felt like a "no gravity" ascent... every move felt totally save.

Some minutes later I did also the 7B finish with the lower start (another softer variant to the left), which is called to be 7C+...!!! Unbelievable!
7C+, 8A and a 8A+ in one single evening session.... that's definitely my personel best ever!!!!
It seems, that I'm truly back after the second baby-break... or even a little more. Sure... no big numbers so far. I already climbed two 8B's last year... but with my current shape I should be able to do some more of them. YEPAAAA... ;o)

But to be honest.... I really don't understand my achievements at the moment. Since I became a father, I have much less time for my passion, I have less sleep and I'm still getting older and older. I was able to climb 8A not until I got my first child. The biggest steps I made in the last two years... strangely enough.

11 years ago, when I started to climb (with 23), I never expected to even climb 8a or much less to boulder 8A. Such numbers were such far away, that it was like a dream to even think about them. And now I climb up several lines in this difficulty in one session. CRAAAAAAZY...! I can't find any other word for that. But I'm really happy with it - sure - and hope, that I also will be able to improve my skills and abilities futher more in the future.

Regards from a very happy daddy...!! ;)


  1. he ronny, woa!!! du gehst ja ab in deinen alten tagen, mega! beeindruckende bilanz so für ein gemütlicher feierabend.... "stronger as ever" würd ich mal sagen, yeah great! obwohl ich mich zurzeit mehr auf biketrails befinde als an felswänden fühle ich in deinem blog jeden move, fühle die anspannung, leide mit, bekomme feuchte hände, .... und freue mich über deinen erfolg! only a climber knows the feeling ;-) ... go on, ronny! p.s. weisst du noch, als wir im chämiloch verzweifelt die fledermaus versuchten und uns wünschten jemals eine 8a klettern zu können... das leben schreibt die besten geschichten!

  2. Ciao Simon,
    Vielen Dank für Dein Feedback!! Ja... die Fledermaus! :) Eine Begehung dieser war damals noch so was von UTOPISCH, dass man nur ungläubig die Wand hatte betrachten können. Und heute, viele viele Jahre später, klettern wir Routen, die nochmals deutlich schwieriger sind. Verrückte Welt...!!! ;o)


    P.S.: Wär schön, wenn man Dich/Euch auch wieder mal am Fels trifft.