Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi

Saturday, June 9, 2012

Doing some new stuff

The past days since my last blog entry I only tried one of my last projects up at Murgtal… the sitstart of Fred’s 8B+ shield. The most important line for me - „Bourguignon, 8B“ - is still not accessible. So I have no other lines up there than the 8B+ Shiend at the moment.

Ohhh… before I forget it: Just yesterday I got the information from Stefan Kürzi that this shield got a name now. He was there with Fred Nicole himself to take some pictures. And the name which Fred has given to this beautiful line is… L’ombre du vent, 8B+“.

After my fast ascent of the standing start (8A) i gave some tries to the sitstart too. Already that evening I was able to do every single move quite easily… expect the first one.  It was also possible to link almost all moves together. But this first move is killing me now since four days…!!! ... :( ... ;)

The big crux... the very first move to a tiny but good crimp.

Last week while working on it I was suddenly able to hold this little bastard crimp which you try to catch dynamicly. But just one time!! It was after about seven tries or so. I was so happy about this success that I finished climbing and went down to the pad. I thought that it would work now. But that was a big mistake. On the same evening I gave it some other about a douzen tries and since then I was at the shield for two other days… but I was simply not able to do this move again. Crazy…!!! I’m so close every try. It’s not the problem to get the hold… but to grab it in the right position, with the right timing and not too much dynamics… that’s the big business!!

But never mind… it’s a very hard boulder at my absolute limit or even beyond. 8B+ would be my next level and a step foreward in my climbing-life. So it doesn’t matter if I need some more days to get it. Even if I have to try it until the next autumn. ;)

Anyway! In the past days I was not just at the shield. I tried some new stuff too and was able to do some nice FA’s at the Murgtal. The most of them are all at the same boulder. The one where „Love again, pain again 7A“ is located. I added some nice other lines to this little wall. The most beautiful one is „Painful Love, 7B+“ for sure. A line about 3 or 4 meters to the right of „Love again, pain again 7A“. It’s an absolutely independent line which is looking much easier than it is.

Aldo in the crux move of "Painful Love, 7B+"...

On the same day I also did a project in the guidebook. I called it „Robin, 7C+“. It’s an other variant of the Batman-traverse at the upper sector „lake“. I’m not sure if it is really an FA. It could be, that someone has climbed it before. I found a movie on vimeo from a few local guys which are trying the line too. But they did a completely other variant and there was no topout on the movie. So it seemed that they haven’t climbed it yet.

My hook-solution for that project... worked quite well.

This Thursday now I climbed two other new lines. But this time both on the „Love & pain Boulder“, how we are calling that little wall in the meantime. ;)

Nice view from the "Love & Pain Boulder"... 

One of them is a logical variant straight up from the startholds of „Love again, pain again 7A“. You have to go then over two little crimps. One of them is not little but rather tiny. So I gave it the name „No pain no gain, 7B/B+“. I’m not sure about the grade… but it’s not easy!! Give it a try and give me some feedback...

The other line I’m not really proud of… but it was really fun to work on it. It starts about one meter to the left of „Painful love, 7B+“ and has the same topout. But you start with a really bad and almost vertical crimp for your left hand one of the bad little holds of Painful Love. Then you have to do one move with your right hand to a not so bad but slopy side-hold and afterwards you have to do a huge dyno to a far but quite good hold. I took me not just one day to do this move…!! Alltogether I tried it on three different days. Sure… I never was absolutely fresh when I tried it. But it felt really hard. Because of the fact that it was just a bauble and the fact that small people have to use two pads to reach the start holds, I called the line „Spextra Jump, 7C“ (a special extra jump). ;)

Body-position before the big dyno (after the first move)...

The dyno itself...

The nice thing is… that other aspirants now have many possibilities on that wall and some more routes at Murgtal between 7B and 7C. There are not so many in this range.

Last but not least I found a new bummer line… which is still a project. My project… !! ;)

I don’t like to give more details about it… but it will give an 8B for sure. The puzzling is already done, the moves are working… as next I have to put them all together. :)


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