Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi

Monday, February 11, 2013

Chipping and other stories

Sorry to all the followers of my blog. My last entry is quite a long time ago. But there is a simple reason for that… I just didn’t climbed a lot in the last two months. Since mid of December until mid of January I was three or four days on the rock. Don’t know why… but my motivation was not the highest during this period. Anyway… a few weeks break or less climbing are important in a climbing-year and so I made use of this time with a lot of other important things in life. Family, recreation and other stuff was just more importantly. ;)

I‘ve just one thing I like to highlight from the past December. Shortly before „Komilator, 8A“ in Chironico was getting chipped, two friends of mine - Aldo Tonazzi and Heinz Betschart – made a quick ascent of this nice boulder. Nice to see how these two guys are getting stronger and stronger. Aldo managed to climb several 7C+ and some 8A’s in 2012 and also Heinz climbed some hard stuff including a first ascent of „Diabolik machine, 7C+“ at Gottardo and his first 8A with the ascent of Komilator. And he did not „just“ (sorry) the usual solution with the dyno to the huge jug, how most of the others are climbing this line… no, he climbed the whole thing without the border, the big hold and the sloper in front of this big hold. CONGRATS to both of them…!!

Aldo shortly before his ascent...
Heinz in action too...

But now to the bad part of this story. KOMILATOR IS CHIPPED… rest in peace…! :(
I’ve no idea how someone can do something! REALLY!!! The whole Ticino-connection was on the road and looked out for this guy… or these guys, who knows. They’re  just riding for a fall…!!!

But hey… I’m really interested in their thinking. Do they think they had climbed „Komilator, 8A“ now… after the line is chipped…????!!!!!???? As I got the information, this line probably 7b/7b+ now (with the big jug). Really strange! How is it possible that someone can be so stupid? Or WHY THE HELL is someone doing something? I’m just overexerted with this question.
I just like to beg everyone: Please do never ever such a stupid thing! Or do it never again!! There are other people around which like to climb such classic lines in their original condition… also in the future. You destroy a part of the bouldering history and it is not possible to undo… !!!! So please stop it and go cycling, if you’re not able to climb the lines in their original condition!!!

Mid of January I started to climb my usual two days a week and  had a look to two nice problems... „Walker on earth, 8A“ and „Miss Schweiz, 8A“. Especially Miss Schweiz is a real pearl and an impressive peace of rock…!!! Nice to tell that I made short work on both of them and climbed them the same evening. Sure… I tried them already some days before, but I managed to climb MS on the second and WOE on the third evening. Nice… it seems that I’m back in shape and the rare climbing and lot of eating during Christmas didn’t made me too lame. :)
Some pictures from "Miss Schweiz, 8A":

The beauty...!!

...and pretty high!


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