Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Crack way

The last weekend we had stable cloudy weather without any rain, although the weather forecast had predicted rain for the whole two days. Because my girlfriend had spent the entire weekend with friends in Milan, I was not able to make use of these nice conditions.

On Sunday evening then it started to rain. Ohhh man!! Nevertheless, I was hoping for a dry Monday and the possibility to make use of the still cool temps in the evening. Luckily the rain had stopped in the morning and in the evening, when I arrived in Morschach, I found perfect conditions (dry 8-10°C) for a possible last go for my project up there.

Who knows… now, by end of April, it’s getting warm pretty fast. Today we already have up to 17°C, tomorrow 21° and on Thursday it will have up to 24°C. Way too hot for Morschach. ;)

So then… the omens were good. I just had to do it. Firstly a warmup and about half an hour later the first real attempts. Unfortunately, I didn’t felt better than the last days in this line and I had still problems to link the moves together. After a few more bad than good tries I was forced to look for a simpler solution and tried some new beta without much success.

Then the brainstorm…! What a stupid idiot I was…!!!! Since days now I was trying an unnecessarily complicated solution. Why the hell I didn’t realized it earlier!!!! Anyway… four attempts later I reached the target-hold and freed the Snow White from the deep sleep. Yesss!!

As I know, this line was never climbed before. If someone knows it better, please send me an info.

Six days of work for the “Crack way, 7C+”. Five of the six days I simply tied a stupid beta. I’m pretty sure I could climb it in one or two days, if I would have been able to recognize the only logical solution earlier. Anyway… now it isn’t an 8A or even harder, it’s “just” a 7C+ in the end or even 7C (not sure)… but a really beautiful one. 

little change...

...big difference. ;)

With the name "Crack way" I wanted a link / reference to the original line "Crossed road". In the end it’s the same boulder without usage of the arete on the left, but only with the crack itself.

Still undone is a sit start to both of them. I had already a (very) short look to it and I think that it should be possible, but very very difficult (~8B)!


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