Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi

Monday, September 2, 2013

"Reykyavik low, 8B" - First Ascent

O man... a long battle has finally found its end. Over the last two summer-seasons I went up to this bloc for uncoutable days. Altogether it took me 18 up to 20 days to finish this low start version to the original "Reykyavik, 8A+/8B".  I wrote already so many words about this battle, I don't like to lose too much words again. Just something:

Unbelievable how many days it took after my ascent of the original line. After the first two or three days in the low-start and the solution found, I thought that it will be a matter of a few more days or even a few tries. But the presence tells a different story. ;)

It was an extreme fight to link all the moves together. Nonetheless I think that I have made myself quite clumsy. But anyway... this low start is definitely significantly more difficult as the the original and therefore I put it as a safe 8B or even a hard one. Would be nice to get a feedback soon. I'm sure there are many guys out there, which are able to climb that beast a little bit faster than me!! ;o)

Short movie of the FA...:

Reykyavik low, 8B

the low start holds... the sloper above is the left-hand start hold of the original line.

the first crux-move... i's hard to do not loose your feets. 


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