Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi

Thursday, October 4, 2012

New Bummer-Line at Sustenpass and more...

Wow... what a show I've seen yesterday evening!! REAAAALY impressive how easy Martin Keller climbed a new line (Schneehäschen-project) at the Traumland-bloc at Sustenpass. I tried it too and the new line is a real BUMMER. Steep as hell with long and hard compression-moves on small crimps.
It's kind of a sitstart to "Pitbull, 8A+". But you do not one of the moves of Pitbull, expect the ones for the topout. So it's an independent line for itself and WAY harder than Pitbull, which is climbed quite often and was never downgraded. Every move is extremely hard... the whole line is very homogenous.


Martin didn't gave it an official name so far and also no rating. My opinion is clear... must be about 8B/8B+...!!!
For me definitely one of the nicest lines at Sustenpass... if not the nicest one due to the impressive moves on steep rock.

I'm sure you will read an entry on his bloc soon.

And me?

I've climbed my project "Reykyavik, 8A+/8B" on Tuesday last week. Yesss...! Shortly before my ascent Martin arrived too and gave me a spot and some mental energy to do so. Sometimes it really helps, if you have someone on your side while trying a project. Another person can just give you some more motivation and confidence and can push you to more power and resilience.
the start of "Reykyavik, 8B"... but a REAL sitstart please! ;)

Afterwards both of us tried a new low sitstart to Reykyavik, which adds two more moves into the original line. Just two moves... but two hard ones!!
Unfortunately both of us were not able to find an good solution and do these moves this evening... we were too tired after the climbing before.

Yesterday, after the big SHOW of Martin, I went down to this low-start again. And despite I already tried the new line from Martin for quite a long time I was able to find a solution for these two hard start-moves. Wow... I was really excited!! I didn't expected it. The moves are quite hard and afterwards you have to climb an 8A+/8B too. But it definitely works and I climbed a whole sequence with some of the first moves of the original line.

I'm not sure if Reykyavik really deserves an 8B. I think it's a very soft one and felt more like 8A+. I just did it too fast. I almost climbed it on my first day after about 1 hour of trying but finished climbing, because of some drizzling rain.
I dont know... it's definitely my stile (compression-bouldering), but 8B? We will see... after some more ascents of this beautiful line.
Anyway... the low start-version will definitely be an 8B. That's for sure!

I will be back soon...!! ;)

keep on rockin

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