Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Feeble Day

Every sportsman has this experience and knows it - you have the strong days and the weak days... but nonetheless we are surprised sometimes if you have such huge differences in the physical fitness just inbetween a short time. The one day you're able to do some hard moves without any problem and they really feel easy, and the next day you're simply not able do any of the same moves again.

It happened Thursday evening. I went up to the Sustenpass with the confidence that I will climb and finish "Reykyavik, 8B". A nice, short and very powerful problem on steep rock. I gave it already some tries on Tuesday together with Martin Keller. He showed me a nice solution which fits me well and I added some beta-improvements to simplify some moves even more. Together we created a nice solution which worked really well for both of us. I almost climbed the line at the same evening, despite of about 18°C temps and drizzling rain. I just loosed the hook sometimes, so that I wasn't able to finish it. Because of the meanwhile a bit wet topout and the slacking power I decided to let it be and finish it the next climbing day. And that one was on Thursday...
I tried the line for about a douzen times, but was simply not able to do the moves again. It seems that the 48 hours break were not enough for my maximum power. Even the first move, which I did several times in a row without any problem was not possible. I felt complitely out of position!!

before the crux...

But that just shows:
The body needs his breaks, time to recover... but he also needs the right energy input, enough sleep or the right conditions. It's not easy, or respectively not possible, do fetch the maximal theoretical output of your body (power / endurance) all the time and according to that we have to accept such days too.

AND... on Tuesday the line felt not like 8B... more than 8A+. However on Thursday  it felt like 8B+...!!!!! ;o)
That just shows how difficult it is to rate a line and how the feeling can deceive.

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