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Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi



Thursday, June 13, 2013

Charon's Obolus

FINALLYYYYYY...!!

After about 13 days this year and a few days last year the hard work in this new line at the "Love & Pain bloc" in Murgtal have finally paid off. Several days I was really close and fell at the last moves. But there were also some days, were nothing worked and I was just not able to even do or link the first crux-moves. It ended in a similar fight like the last year with my uncountable tries in "Reykyavik low" (still a project)... but this time with a fruitful end. I'm pretty sure that I'm not in my best shape at the moment and that it could be possible, to do this line faster. I was already close the last year... but in the end it went into a huge battle against "Charon" and myself. I'm very happy to add such an epic line to this area. It's not the nicest boulder... but the line itself with his ingenious moves is a pleasure to climb and real testpiece.

myself in the first crux-moves of "Charon's Obolus, 8B"... pic by Aldo Tonazzi.

The line starts at "Painful love, 7b+", traverses  to the left on small crimps and slopy holds until the quite big side-hold in the middle of the overhanging wall. The finish goes over the small crimps from "No pain no gain, 7B/7B+" to the very left of the boulder.

To the name:
Charon, in Greek mythology, the son of Erebus (darkness) and Nyx (Night), whose duty it was to ferry over the Rivers Styx and Acheron those souls of the deceased who had received the rites of burial. In payment he received the coin (Obolus) that was placed in the mouth of the corpse.


Charon

Grade:
I'm not sure if the line deserves 8B. But the many days I've spent and the comparison to other 8B's I've climbed, i really think that this boulder is harder than all the others (including "Delusion" this spring, which I made much faster and definitely felt easier). But who knows... I would not be surprised, if one of the STRONG guys out there is doing it in a few tries. Would be nice to get some feedback!

A short movie Iv'e recorded will follow soon (added tho this entry).

EDIT:
Charon's Obolus, 8B


cheers
A happy Daddy :)





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