Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Adios Murgchachos

So... now it's slowly getting too warm at Murgtal. The last day I went there i had overt 20°C on the lower sectors. In the morning and up on the sector lake it was about 15°C. Ok for some climbing, but still far away from good conditions. I think I'll devote myself to new areas again until the fresh coolness returns to the "Valley of Murg".
On to the Sustenpass and surrounding areas...! ;)

Some days ago I managed to climb the new line "Minor part, 8A+". Even that day I had 20°C... but the line hiding between two big boulders and is the whole day in the shade. At least the rock was quite cold - not me ;) - so I could climb the line pretty quickly. Luckily...!! I would have not had enough power for a third attempt this day.

The next day then I had a look to "Flanagans, 8B".... but since days now it's coming too much water down the stream and it's not possible to cross it. But... it probably makes sense to wait for autumn anyway!!

What could I do otherwise? Sure... let's have a look for new lines!!!
Recently I noticed a boulder, i've never seen before. It's close to the sector lake... a wonderful high boulder which offers some good lines. The day I saw the boulder I just had a short look to it. But now it was time to put on the shoes. ;)

The boulder had already magnesia on the holds... therefore someone tried or did it already. I managed to climb two lines on it. "Dreamtheater, 7B+" and "Access denied, 7C". Both are highly recommended and very beautiful lines!!

Access denied, 7C (yellow)...  and Dreamtheater, 7B+ (red).

Later I saw that both lines have already been climbed... but not topped out. As I topped out them, I already thought that these were first ascents... just because of the fact, that I haven't seen any signs that someone was up there before. The forest facing side of the block is completely overgrown with moss and it is impossible to come down there, leaving no trace in the moss. Anyway... the topout makes sense and completes the lines, but it is not necessary (quite easy) and pretty high too.

Dreamtheater, 7B+

Have fun!!


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