Alphane Moon 8A in Chironico,
pic by Aldo Tonazzi

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

My Axis

Yesterday I went up to Sustenpass to gave "My Axis, 8A+" some more tries. To my own suprise it worked much better than a few days ago.

The second move worked well now... no more problems with this one. But the first move is still undone so far. I grabbed  the roof-edge several times... but was not able to hold on. Either I loosed my feets and couldn't hold the swing (it's all about the hook) or I just slipped from the right hand pinch (really bad one!). The good thing is that i'm quite close now and that it worked way better than last Wednesday. :)

starting position before the crux-move...

If I start after the first move, then I was able to climb the whole rest in one go... but without the final few moves at the top. Without any spotter I will definitely not try that topout!! The highest point is at about 7 meters hight with a quite bad (steep) dropzone. ;) I did already a few high topouts up there... even alone. But this one is too scary! Either I firstly check the last moves with a rope... or I just try it with a spotter at the ground. At the moment I've no idea if the topout is easy, or if there is another crux up there... ;) 

That happens if you loose your feets... but on this move it doesn't matter. ;)

The Snow:
Last Wednesday I thought, that the snow will never melt down this year.... but after yesterday I'm not sure anymore. Since last Wednesday the snow melted for about half a meter at the Marrakesch-bloc. Just five days for half a meter... that's impressive!! If the weather stays warm as it is at the moment with some heat thundestorms at some evenings (typically for a Swiss-summer)... the snow will be completely gone in three or four weeks.



  1. hey ronny,


    to check out the topout: start at the corner standing, make the big move out right around the corner and you have just jugs (you can even shake out there for 10minutes ;). the rest is easy climbing!!!


  2. Heyo Martin,

    I will!!! Hopefully today evening.

    I've already climbed all moves up to the jugs. It's definitely easy to rest up there. But I dind't felt confident enought to try the final two or three moves. There was no pad directly below me...! Brrrr...!!!! ;)