"My Axis, 8A+" is a quite homogeneous line... but the first move in is definitely the crux. Altogether I needed four days to finish it. Already on the third day I was able to do every move expect the first one. I was already extremely close, but was not able to finish it that evening. Yesterday now I found a new position for the right starting hold AND... the first move felt way easier!!
In the past days I tried that move time and again, surely for about two douzen tries, but was simply not able to do it. Now - with this little change - it worked every try!! After three or four tries I finally topped out the line.
Funny... little change, huge effect!!! ;)
Afterwards I tried "Kill your idols, 8A" on the same bloc, which was firstly climbed by Markus Bock in the year 2000. As I know, this line never got a repetition.
I was really close and have almost climbed that one too. But in the end I was not fresh enough to do so.
Well... I will be back soon...!
|red one: "Kill your idols, 8A"...|
yellow one: "My Axis, 8A+"...
Finally I started to work on a new line on the same bloc too (new project). I've no idea how hard it will be in the end. For sure somewhere around 8A. Probably harder... probably a bit softer. We willl see... let's surprise. ;)
I've already written how fast the snow is melting up there... incredible! The Marrakesch-bloc for example was more or less completely sepulchred two weeks ago... and now you can almost start to climb on it. At the latest in two or three days you can climb every line there.
Have a look to these pictures I've taken in the last days...
|18. July 2012|
|five days later... 23. July 2012|
|another three days... 26. July 2012|
|and yesterday... 30. July 2012|
|EDITED: a bit blurred... 02. August 2012|